A Journey to the Georgian Mountain Ranges (Part 1)

Unusually, it was a trip to Georgia that I decided in just two days. Although I had this desire in my mind for a long time, I had not yet made any preparations for it. My sister and her family had planned the trip earlier, and I joined them at the last minute.

Georgia is a beautiful country that can be visited at a relatively low cost for people from GCC countries. That’s why many people from the Gulf countries visit here. Indian nationals need to get a visa in advance. However, if you are a GCC resident, you can enter Georgia without a visa directly. Air Arabia and Fly Dubai offer the most affordable services to Georgia. When traveling from India, the costs are higher, and it seems there are no direct flights from major Indian cities to Georgia. The journey, which involves 20-24 hours with connecting flights from various places, tends to be more expensive. While the travel and accommodation costs in Georgia are low, shopping, food, and other expenses can add up.

It’s advisable for travelers to Georgia to carry US Dollars, as Georgian Lari (GEL) is difficult to find at money exchanges in other countries. Also, exchange centers in Georgia don’t deal in Dirhams or Riyals. One GEL is approximately 29 rupees.

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Georgia: A Beautiful, Safe, and Unique Travel Dest

Georgia is not only a beautiful country to visit at a low cost but also boasts an excellent climate. The maximum temperature there is around 25°C, whereas other places are experiencing only 5°C. However, as we head towards the mountains, the temperature drops drastically to a chilly -21°C. It is said that in January, temperatures can dip as low as -40°C. With proper precautions, one can comfortably manage the 4-5°C weather. Even at midday, there is no direct sunlight, and if there is, it doesn’t feel uncomfortable. The weather here is ideal for walking around without feeling exhausted or losing freshness, making it a perfect climate for sightseeing. The best time to visit Georgia is September when the vast green mountains, valleys, and the city look most beautiful. After this time, the greenery diminishes, and the leaves of trees turn yellow and red before falling. In the mountains, ice will be seen everywhere, which creates a new kind of scenic beauty, though it might cause the natural diversity to be less apparent in photographs.

Safety is an important consideration when visiting any country, and Georgia is no different. The people here are extremely gentle and humble, with a natural ability to charm others. However, there are many roaming street children who can be problematic. Though they may appear harmless, these kids are professional criminals who work in groups, often targeting tourists for pickpocketing. They are not registered and cannot be jailed without proper identification. The local law enforcement, unfortunately, has limited English proficiency, making communication with the police difficult. The response from the police can be cold and indifferent, and the process of filing complaints can be slow and inefficient. Therefore, ensuring your own safety is crucial while traveling here. In addition to these street children, beggars are a common sight in many places, including those with sick children lying in wheelchairs or beds.

Georgia declared its independence from Russia in 1991, making it one of the 15 countries that separated from the Soviet Union. Until the 1980s, many parts of Georgia lacked electricity. The bitterness of growth may have driven them to seek independence from Russia. Even after gaining independence, the country faced internal issues and conflicts with Russia, which caused significant turmoil. However, over time, Georgia has emerged from these struggles, and it now attracts millions of tourists annually. Its neighboring countries include Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Russia, and many people from these regions reside in Georgia. If you walk through the streets, you are likely to meet people from these neighboring countries as well.

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Arrival in Tbilisi: A Snow-Capped Landscape

After our flight took off from Sharjah, I managed to get some sleep. Upon waking up and looking outside, it was immediately clear what Georgia had prepared for us. As far as the eye could see, there were snow-covered mountain ranges; not a single mountain stood without a blanket of snow. The airplane descended through thick clouds towards Tbilisi Airport at 4:30 pm. The atmosphere was overcast, with not even a shadow of the sun visible, and there was light rain. The European-style houses and buildings, standing tall in a variety of colors, offered an interesting sight. Unlike the tightly packed buildings of the Arab world, the buildings here were spread out across a vast space.

Tbilisi, the capital city of Georgia, is home to one of the country’s four international airports, and the airport was surprisingly not very crowded. The emigration process was incredibly simple. As soon as we exited, the cold air hit us.

Outside, we found a travel agent holding a board with our names. He was George, and just like other Georgians, he had a pleasant demeanor but didn't speak any English. When we asked what language Georgians speak, his answer was simply the name of his homeland.

In Georgia, the traffic is left-hand drive, but surprisingly, there are plenty of right-handed vehicles. With great ease, the right-handed vehicles navigate between the left-hand vehicles on the road. Although the roads are narrow, they are in excellent condition. Instead of traditional dividers, a large line painted on the road separates the traffic in both directions. Vehicles from all the major companies can be seen on the roads. Public transport here consists of yellow-colored tempo travelers.

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Bridge of Peace and Tbilisi: A Glimpse

This picture is taken from the famous Bridge of Peace, a significant landmark in Tbilisi town, which is built over the Kura River. More details about the bridge will follow later...

After about a 40-minute drive from the airport, we reached Tbilisi city. The city is nestled in a valley surrounded by towering mountains. Atop these mountains, large fortresses stand with their heads held high. These fortresses have now been converted into Christian churches. No matter where you look, you're bound to see a church. As the name suggests, Georgia is a Christian country. In the city, you can see both majestic old buildings and newly constructed ones in various interesting designs, including buildings shaped like domes and pipes.

 

Our vehicle took us to a roundabout where a massive statue of St. George stands. This colossal sculpture, created by Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, was built during the Soviet Union era. The square underwent several name changes and is now known as Freedom Square.

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Freedom Square to Cobblestone Roads

From Freedom Square, our vehicle entered a beautiful cobblestone road, clean and narrow. On both sides, maple trees stood proudly, their red leaves forming a carpet along the path. The leaves scattered across the road, adding to its natural beauty. The following morning, workers removed the leaves, ensuring the street remained pristine. There are many such cobbled roads in the city, preserving the old-world charm and grandeur. The cobbled paths have been left untarred, maintaining their ancient character, a testament to the city's desire to preserve its history.

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Wine Shops on Georgian Streets

One of the most common sights on Georgian streets is the wine shops. Georgia is one of the world's leading wine producers. According to our guide, there are around 700 different grape varieties exclusive to Georgia, and the country exports wine to over 40 nations. Vineyards can be seen sprawling in front of houses across the country, where grapes thrive in abundance, showcasing the rich winemaking heritage of Georgia

The signboard in front of a wine shop speaks volumes about how deeply wine influences the lives of Georgian people. In a country known for its rich winemaking tradition, wine is not just a drink; it is woven into the cultural fabric and daily life of its people, symbolizing hospitality, celebration, and pride.

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Exploring Tbilisi: A City of Faith and Culture

After dinner, we took a stroll through the streets. While most of the residents are Christians, Georgia also hosts places of worship from other religious communities. Along the way, we came across a Jewish synagogue, shining brightly with special lighting arrangements. Above it, the moon was rising, adding to the beauty of the scene.

The next morning, we had plans for a Tbilisi city tour, and I was determined to wake up fresh for the journey ahead. A good rest was essential to shake off the travel fatigue, so I made my way straight to my room to sleep in the warmth, surrounded by the chilly night.

Stay tuned for more about Tbilisi's unique charm in the next part!

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Through Tbilisi City (Part 2)

The narrow path led us down from the ancient Muslim mosque in Tbilisi to a charming little street, where we continued on our journey. We followed Mary through a series of narrow alleys, bordered by houses on both sides. The path led us along a small stream, which seemed to be running gently due to the off-season. There were hills on both sides, with walkways built along the edges. In several places, small bridges crossed over the stream, designed in a way that added to the beauty of the surroundings, with arch-like structures enhancing the landscape.

This stream originates from a waterfall, which we were heading towards. Mary mentioned that since it wasn’t the rainy season, the waterfall wasn’t as forceful, but it was still worth a visit. We crossed a bridge to reach the other side. As soon as our eyes landed on the hundreds of locks attached to the railing, Mary explained the story behind them.

It’s a Georgian tradition: newlyweds attach locks to the bridge to symbolize the strength and longevity of their marriage. The locks are placed there to ensure that the bond between the couple will never break. This bridge, known as the Love Bridge, is a romantic spot that holds great significance for couples.

A distant view of the Love Bridge shows the buildings on top, some of which have been built with parts extending out over the bridge. When the water flows more vigorously, the view from the balconies above is likely to be an interesting sight to behold.

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Founder of Tbilisi

We descended from the pathways on the sides and walked closer to the waterfall. There was a beautifully constructed wooden pathway, with a comfortable spot to stand and enjoy the view. Since the water level was lower at the time, there was no obstruction to getting closer. Though it wasn’t a large waterfall, the cool, refreshing atmosphere, the pathway, and the surrounding hills created a pleasant experience.

After a few hours, we took a picture with Mary, who had become one of us. I had noticed the strange smell of hydrogen sulfide coming from the water as I was observing the surroundings. There was no sign of polluted water anywhere, which made me wonder. Then, Mary began to explain an amazing story. She told us that the area is home to numerous sulfur-rich hot springs, which are believed by the Georgians to have medicinal benefits, including healing skin diseases and various other ailments.

Selenium sulfide is used as a treatment for skin conditions, and it is indeed true that sulfur has certain medical properties. Even though many ailments may not be treated directly by these waters, the belief in their curative powers led to the development of sulfur baths. These baths are equipped with facilities for both hot and cold sulfur water treatments, as well as massage services. Private rooms are available for a more personal experience. Those who have used these sulfur baths claim that after a session, their skin feels exceptionally smooth.

The sulfur baths have a history that spans centuries. The discovery of these sulfur springs dates back to the reign of King Vakhtang Gorgasali. At that time, Tbilisi was just a forest. The story goes that while King Vakhtang Gorgasali was hunting with his falcons, his falcons fell into the hot sulfur stream and died. This event piqued the curiosity of the king, which eventually led him to clear the forest and establish the city of Tbilisi. The name Tbilisi comes from the word "Tbilisi," which means "warm" in the Georgian language. King Vakhtang Gorgasali is known as the Founder of Tbilisi.

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Orthodox church

By the time we returned, Georgi was waiting with the car. Our next journey was to a massive Orthodox church located on a hill, facing the Kura River. This church is known as the Holy Trinity Church, also referred to as Sameba. It holds the third tallest position in the world among churches, and in terms of area, it is one of the largest religious establishments globally.

The design was chosen from several plans submitted for the church, with the final selection being made from the numerous plans offered by sculptor Archil Mindiyashvili. Though the plan was selected years earlier, due to internal issues in Georgia, construction did not begin until 1995. The church was completed in 2004.

The height of the church is 105.5 meters, with a total area of 2,380 square meters. It also houses an underground chapel that is 13 meters high. If one were to describe Tbilisi’s face, this church would be a perfect symbol of the city. No matter from where you look, it is easily visible. At night, the church is beautifully illuminated with special lighting arrangements.

A short distance from the church is an artificial pond. The reflection of the church in the water at night creates a stunning photo frame. However, due to our tight schedule, we were unable to visit this spot at night. Tour packages come with their own set of limitations!

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mother of Georgia statue

By the time we descended from the hill, it was already 3 PM. It was only when I checked my watch that I became aware of the time. Surprisingly, I wasn’t feeling tired or hungry.

“If you’re not tired, we can visit a nearby hilltop park. It has some beautiful views,” said Mary. There wasn’t much time allocated for lunch, but I quickly thought it over and realized that food wasn’t my priority at the moment – I wanted to see as much as I could. Deciding to go wasn’t difficult.

Georgi drove us up the hill, following the same route we had taken in the morning to see the Mother of Georgia statue. Afterward, we took a different road leading to even higher altitudes. After about 45 minutes of winding and turning, we finally reached the top of the hill, where we were brought to see the Tsminda Park.

This park wasn’t just a park built on a hill; the entire hill had been transformed into a park. The entrance to the park was designed in a unique way. The place was colder than the city below. The park had ample space for rest and casual walks, but due to time constraints, Mary only took us to the main areas.

Most of the trees in the park had yellow leaves, with patches of green visible here and there. According to the guide, only pine trees remain green in Georgia during this season. There were plenty of benches under the trees to sit and relax.

Within the park, there were small kiosks scattered around, and there was also a large hotel – the Tsminda Park Hotel. It’s one of the most luxurious hotels in Tbilisi.

From the front of the Tsminda Hotel, you can get a panoramic view of the entire city. Being at a higher elevation, you could see even more of the area than we did earlier in the morning, but it still seemed quite small. Right next to it, there was a telescope with a coin slot, allowing you to zoom in on specific areas for a closer look.

Inside the park, there was a large watchtower. It seemed that no one was allowed to go up yet, as we didn’t see anyone heading in that direction. Not far from it, there was a giant wheel, resembling the Singapore Flyer. It was built to slowly rotate, providing a great view of the entire city from above. The tower, illuminated at night, looks particularly beautiful from the city. When Mary saw a photo of it and made the comment that it was the best lens for capturing the entire tower in one frame, I couldn’t help but agree.

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Exploring Tbilisi: A Memorable City Tour

The park tour ended, and on our way back, I saw a breathtaking sight. I remembered earlier when the guide had mentioned that only pine trees remain green during this season. "I will catch up with you, did you go ahead?" I called out, as I stood there. I couldn’t leave without taking a few photos. After changing my lens, I took two or three shots, and by the time I was done, Mary had come looking for me, reminding me that it was time to go.

According to the schedule, the city tour was supposed to end at 1 pm, but it wrapped up only at 5 pm. By the time I realized the tour had ended, I started feeling a little hungry and tired. The city tour actually included two museums, but due to the time spent taking photos and exploring, we couldn’t visit them. However, I didn’t feel disappointed. Though we didn’t visit the museums, we had immersed ourselves in the beauty of the sights we had already seen, and that was enough.

The tour concluded in front of the Taj Mahal Indian hotel. It was right next to our hotel. I asked Mary and Georgy, “Are you coming with us tomorrow too?” They replied that their schedules were with a different team. It was a thought-provoking moment as I realized we wouldn’t see each other again. I made sure to express my gratitude for everything, especially for Mary and Georgy, who had shown us around and explained everything so thoroughly.

After having dinner and resting for a while, I had planned to step out once more to capture the night views of the city. Tomorrow, we were scheduled to travel to the top of a distant mountain. It would be a long day, and I knew we would return late. The following day too, we had to travel a short distance. I thought to myself, maybe I wouldn’t get another chance to roam the city at night. However, once I returned to the room, the comfort of the bed and the warmth of the sheets left me with only a fleeting memory of my earlier thoughts.

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Part 3 - A Walk Through Tbilisi City

In Georgia, the day dawns quite late. It was around 7:30 AM when the streets started to light up. Even before that, I saw workers sweeping fallen leaves from the streets. In the freezing cold, they were working hard, wrapped in blankets and wearing shoes up to their knees. I sat there for a while, watching people work while sipping on a strong Georgian coffee.


 

After having breakfast at the hotel, I was ready by 10 AM. On time, George, whom I had met the day before, arrived with his car. Along with him was our guide for the day, a beautiful Georgian woman named Mary, who greeted us with a smile and a cheerful "Namaskaram" when she learned we were from India.

By then, the streets had become busy with traffic. We drove around Freedom Square, and then the car turned onto the main road. After a short drive, we stopped at one of Tbilisi’s major tourist spots, the Peace Bridge. It’s a pedestrian bridge that immediately catches the attention of anyone traveling through the city. Designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi, the bridge is elegantly constructed using steel and glass in the shape of a ship's hull. The 450-foot-long bridge opened to the public in 2010.

The Peace Bridge crosses the Kura River, which originates in Turkey, flows through Georgia, and reaches the Caspian Sea via Azerbaijan, stretching approximately 1500 kilometers. The deepest part of the Kura River lies in Tbilisi. The river, flowing gracefully through the city, offers a beautiful view. Walkways have been built along both sides, with large trees planted to create a peaceful atmosphere. Benches are placed throughout for people to relax. The trees with red leaves on both sides add to the beauty of the Kura River. The Peace Bridge, which doesn't obscure the view, is built to blend harmoniously with the surroundings. The bridge is green, with glass panels above reflecting that color. At night, the bridge lights up with red LED lights. The Peace Bridge leads into Rike Park on the opposite side of the road. When we arrived, there were only a few visitors at the park.

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The Kura River and the Beauty of Tbilisi

The view of the Kura River is beautiful, but it’s disheartening to see the polluted water being channeled into the river through small and large pipes across the city. I couldn’t help but wonder how the people of Georgia, who otherwise live in harmony with nature, could allow the river to be polluted in such a way. Though the guide mentioned that no one fishes in the river due to the polluted water, I did see some people casting fishing nets along the way.

After taking a few pictures at the Peace Bridge, we walked across to the other side towards Rike Park. The park was peaceful and serene, with no crowds. The tranquil atmosphere of the vast park is something that anyone would appreciate. After spending some time there, we continued our walk. Mary took us up a hill, where a fortress stood with a statue of a king sitting on horseback nearby. The entire scene, with dark clouds filling the sky, looked almost like a Dracula’s castle.

As we reached the building, Mary, in her usual enthusiastic manner, explained, “A good guide should be like this.” The building we were looking at was the Metekhi Church and the statue of the famous king Vakhtang Gorgasali, who was known for his contributions to the renovation of Tbilisi. The first structure on this hill was built in the 1820s, but over time, it was damaged by revolutions, natural disasters, and wars, only to be rebuilt several times.

Though now a church, during the Russian occupation, the building was used for ammunition storage and as a military bunker. The Russian communist regime eventually destroyed it, but the structure we see today was built in 1988. It is now a peaceful Georgian church, though the interior lacks the grandeur seen outside. Inside, only the light of simple candles illuminates the space. People come here to pray or simply to enjoy the quiet surroundings.

Near the statue of King Gorgasali, there are seating areas where one can sit and enjoy the view. Below, the Kura River flows, and beyond that, the entire city unfolds. The feeling of the breeze gently blowing is truly something special, adding to the tranquility of the moment.

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The Statue of "Mother of Georgia"

I could have sat there for a long time, immersed in the serenity, but until Mary called out, "My group, let us go," I remained. Unlike other guides, Mary generously gave us more time to enjoy the places and even allowed us to take pictures. The photo session lasted long, and the city tour, originally set to end by 1 pm, concluded at 5 pm. However, the sights in Tbilisi are too many to be explored in such a short time.

When we got in the car again, George was waiting for us. Our next destination was a hill, which stands as the boundary of the city. There, we visited the 20-meter high aluminum statue called "Mother of Georgia" (Kartlis Deda). Created by Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli, it was erected in 1958. This statue not only attracts visitors for its artistic value but also for the spectacular panoramic view it offers of the entire city of Tbilisi.

The statue symbolizes two key elements: the sword in the right hand represents Georgia's ability to defend against invaders, while the wine jug in the left hand symbolizes Georgia’s tradition of welcoming visitors. The statue stands at the far end of the hill, and there’s very little space to take a picture up close. For those eager to capture the perfect shot, sometimes the city of Tbilisi itself seems to stretch beneath your feet.

The true shape of the Peace Bridge can be seen in this picture. Just beside it, we can observe one of the many uniquely designed buildings in Tbilisi. The city’s charm is greatly enhanced by its colorful buildings.

Tbilisi’s architecture bears a striking resemblance to European buildings, with influences evident in many of the structures. The combination of varied architectural styles and vibrant colors gives Tbilisi its distinctive and captivating appearance.

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Religious Landmarks

Although we traveled by car to the hilltop, the return journey was made on foot, taking the scenic route down while enjoying the city view. The beautiful stone-paved pathway is lined with grass and trees, making the descent an enjoyable experience without any fatigue.

On the opposite side of the hill lies a botanical garden. A viewpoint has been created along the path where visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the garden. The garden spans 161 hectares and is home to around 4,500 plant species. Due to time constraints, we didn't venture into the garden itself.

Continuing along the path, we eventually reached the St. Nicholas Church. Built in the 13th century, the church was damaged by fire but was rebuilt in 1997 to its current form. The interior is beautiful, but photography is not allowed.

Right next to St. Nicholas Church is one of the three main Muslim mosques in Tbilisi. It is believed that Islam arrived in Georgia through Arab invasion, and the first mosque was built in the 16th century. The mosque is designed with numerous corners and is highly noticeable due to its distinctive architectural style.

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Unique Snacks and Local Delights

As mentioned earlier, wine shops are ubiquitous throughout Tbilisi, and similarly, stores selling honey and snacks are a common sight. Georgia is famous for its variety of honey, and you can find it at very affordable prices. One thing that caught my attention during our first day was a long, colorful object hanging in front of many shops. I couldn't figure out what it was—was it a sweet, a meat item, or perhaps some kind of dried fruit? During our city tour, Mary took us to one of these shops, and we learned that the object was a Georgian treat known as "Snicker."

Snicker is made by filling thick grape paste (tart, like raisins) with various nuts and tying it with a string. You can choose the flavor with the nuts you prefer. Although it looks quite sweet, it has a mild sweetness. We tried some and found it delightful, accompanied by some unfamiliar nuts on the side for the journey.

Snicker, wine, honey, and nuts are some of the delightful treats you can enjoy in Tbilisi. Among these experiences, I was particularly happy to capture a photo of the Snicker.

In the upcoming parts, we’ll also explore more attractions in Tbilisi, including the famous sulfur baths.

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Part 4 - Journey Through the Mountains

I woke up in the morning to find a message from Mary on WhatsApp. The same team that was with us yesterday will join us today for the Mountain Tour as well. We were asked to be ready by 9:30 am. Hearing that the team was the same, everyone was excited.

We were headed to a place with extreme cold, so all necessary precautions were essential—thick jackets, gloves, hats, and shoes that could withstand the snow. Some items had already been prepared, but a few others had to be bought. We stopped at a shopping mall a little outside Tbilisi city, where each of us got what we needed before continuing our journey. This reminded me of my trip to Sikkim, where similar mountains had rentals for snow gear. However, there was no rental service here, and we had to spend at least 1500 rupees for proper snow shoes.

After filling up on petrol and gas, George drove us away from the city, first through rural areas and then up into the mountainous region. As we ascended, the weather changed. The winding mountain roads were gradually covered with ice patches, and the higher we went, the more we saw ice sheets covering the landscape. On both sides of the road, towering mountains stood tall. A beautiful river, with emerald-colored water flowing through a valley, caught our attention—this was the Aragvi River, one of the main tributaries of Tbilisi’s Kura River. The Aragvi River stretches for 112 km, and there's a massive dam here called the Jinvali Reservoir, which serves as one of Georgia’s primary sources of drinking water.

The sight of the water flowing from the surrounding large mountains into the river was mesmerizing. In some spots, the riverbed was frozen in place, with thick layers of ice. We had hoped to stop by the dam, but due to restrictions, George drove a little further and stopped at a viewpoint where we could still enjoy the river’s beauty. The chilly, cloud-covered atmosphere was perfect, and the scene was captivating. As soon as the car stopped, everyone rushed to get a closer look at the view.

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Exploring the Ancient Ananuri Fortress

As we continued our journey, the sight of ice-covered mountains far in the distance reminded me of the view I had seen before while flying into Georgia. The mountains were so vast and tall, their icy tops clearly visible against the sky, a scene we were heading towards. In many places, the ice-covered peaks of the mountains stood sharply against the sky, making them even more striking.

Our next destination was the historic Ananuri Fortress, built in the 13th century. One of the most important tourist attractions in Georgia, Ananuri has witnessed numerous wars throughout its history. The fortress was originally constructed in earlier times, but many additional buildings were added in the 17th century to give it the structure we see today. The underground chambers used during wartime are still visible around the fort, adding to its historical significance. Since 2007, Ananuri has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Like many other castles, it has now been converted into a church.

Before reaching the fortress, we passed through a small market where we could buy Georgian souvenirs like jackets, hats, and mementos.

When we reached the gates of the fortress, Mary gathered us for a history class, explaining the significance of the place in great detail. It was an insightful history lesson, but I was eager to capture some of the views in photos, so I asked someone from the group to remember the details for me while I took a few pictures.

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Tea and Ice Adventures

Before leaving Ananuri, we stopped at a nearby shop to enjoy some tea. The machine-prepared tea had a unique taste, one I had never experienced before. It wasn't exactly like the tea I was used to, and for a moment, I wondered if I was drinking tea or a warm juice—it was that different!

 

Afterward, we headed to another spot near the Aragvi River to get a closer view and take more pictures. Though we were close to the water, it was difficult to get down to the river. This was the point where two branches of the Aragvi River converged. There were a few small shops around, and the sight of ice scattered across the area reminded me of my previous experience in Sikkim. While I wasn't as awestruck, since I had seen similar scenes before, for the rest of the group, this was their first time. Their excitement was contagious as they picked up the ice and threw it, thoroughly enjoying the moment!
 

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A Glimpse of the Georgian Sun

From the moment we arrived in Georgia, the weather had been consistently cool and shaded, which was quite beneficial for us. None of the pictures we took showed any distortion caused by harsh sunlight. It was here, for the first time, that we caught sight of the Georgian sun rising. With no harsh glare, the sun seemed to gently make its way across the sky, adding a serene beauty to the landscape—its warmth slowly creeping in without any of the usual intensity.

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Borjomi Mineral Water

Our next destination was the Gergeti Holy Trinity Church, perched 7,000 feet above sea level on the slopes of the Kasbegi Mountains. We could drive only up to the base of the mountain with George’s car, after which we had to navigate a treacherous mountain path filled with rocks and holes. For that, off-road vehicles driven by experienced drivers were necessary, costing us about 40 GEL. Without hesitation, everyone agreed to proceed.

Before heading there, George checked the weather conditions at Gergeti – the temperature was a chilling minus 21°C. The surrounding mountains were covered in ice, making it difficult to get a clear view of the landscape. But the decision was made: we would proceed regardless of the extreme cold.

On the way, we stopped at a small town for a meal. We visited a honey shop, where large jars of honey were displayed in a variety of colors, from dark red to pale yellow. The shopkeeper explained the various benefits of honey in English, highlighting its properties for immunity, allergies, and heart health. We bought two bottles of honey, negotiating the price down from 70 GEL to 50 GEL. After eating, we continued our journey.

During the trip, the kids asked a funny question that startled me: "Has Mom started the mineral water yet?" Apparently, I had mistakenly bought soda instead of mineral water. This led Mary to explain a fascinating phenomenon about Borjomi Mineral Water – a natural wonder from central Georgia.

Borjomi is a town located eight hours from Tbilisi, famous for its mineral water. It comes from the Bakuriani mountain range at an altitude of 7,500 feet. The water is purified as it flows through layers of calcium carbonate rocks, naturally carbonating itself in the process. This means Borjomi water is essentially a naturally occurring soda, a remarkable feature that intrigued me.

The story goes that during an old war, a soldier discovered this mineral-rich water, and later, it began being commercially produced. Today, Borjomi is exported to many countries. The people of Georgia believe the water, rich in various minerals, has the power to cure numerous ailments, making it a prized natural resource.

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The Journey to Gergeti Monastery

As the car continued its journey, the ice thickened around us, and the mountains were fully covered in snow. Not a trace of green could be seen anywhere. We came across a truck stuck in the snow, causing a minor traffic jam. We stopped for a moment and, stepping out, I took the first photo, capturing the vast expanse of ice-covered terrain.

After passing many hills and valleys, George parked the car at a petrol station, where our Mitsubishi van awaited us. It was much roomier and more comfortable than George's car. Everyone except George climbed into the van, and we left the main road, heading down a narrow concrete path. Soon, the road became narrower and more rugged, eventually turning into a real mountain path. I wondered how this vehicle would manage the rough terrain, but surprisingly, the Mitsubishi van navigated through the rocky paths, icy patches, and flowing water with ease, as though it were a child following instructions.

The driver skillfully maneuvered the van through tight turns and winding paths. On either side, towering pine trees reached up, their tops almost touching the sky. After an hour of driving, we arrived at a flatter area, surrounded by mountains. It was already dark, and we were nearing the Gergeti Monastery, located on a hilltop. The driver stopped the van at the base of the hill, where we could begin our ascent.

As we opened the door, the wind hit us with such force that one of the women with us was knocked down by the cold gusts. The temperature was an unimaginable minus 21°C – a bone-chilling cold that I had never experienced before. Everyone else stayed in the van, but I insisted we should go up, despite the freezing wind. I made sure to carefully step upwards, avoiding the ice-covered ground.

After a few moments, I couldn’t feel my hands anymore, and I struggled to hold my camera. My gloves were no help – my hands turned completely numb, and the cold made it impossible to capture decent photos. The freezing wind made it difficult to even speak.

At last, we rushed into the Gergeti Monastery, not for its interior, but to escape the freezing cold. The others, unable to bear the conditions, ran into the monastery, leaving me to capture a few more shots of the surroundings. Despite my best efforts, the cold was too much, and I could only take a few more pictures before following them inside for warmth.

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Exploring the Gergeti Trinity Church

The Gergeti Trinity Church, built in the 14th century, was strategically placed in a location that was difficult for enemies to reach. After several discussions, this site was chosen for its natural fortification. During the Soviet occupation, when religious structures were destroyed, the St. Nino's Cross, a famous Christian symbol, was hidden here for safekeeping.

Inside the church, photography was prohibited, and we spent a brief moment near the heater to warm up. Once the other visitors had left, there was only one elderly man remaining in the church. We couldn't help but wonder how such a remote place, surrounded by mountains and extreme cold, could be the workplace of just one person. One of us joked, suggesting that Rotation might be the reason he was there, while another humorously speculated it might be Punishment Transfer. ??

Despite searching for a better vantage point to capture the church in a perfect frame, the cold and lack of time made it impossible to try. As we left the church, the driver was already waiting for us, having parked the car higher up the hill to avoid the narrow mountain paths. All the other visitors had already left, and we headed back down. By the time we were leaving, darkness had fallen, and the driver’s hurried actions became clear – traveling on the icy mountain roads in the dark was far from easy.

After some time, we reached the hotel. As we got out of the car, Mary informed us that a new team would be joining us tomorrow, and her part in the journey had come to an end. With a final farewell, we parted ways, reflecting on the unforgettable experience we had shared.

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Part 5 : The Scenic Journey to Signagi

Today’s journey took us to the charming town of Signagi, located in the Kakheti region of Georgia. As the tour was arranged in a hurry, we didn’t have the chance to research the places we’d be visiting, and the limitations of this became apparent on the last day. The two main highlights of the trip were Signagi Town, the Saint Nino Monastery, and a wine factory. Since most people visiting Georgia buy wine, our package also included this stop. However, we realized later that if we had known in advance, we could have substituted the wine factory for another spot.

The day began with the driver arriving at 10 AM in a larger and more spacious Toyota than George's Mazda. The driver introduced himself as Mr. Imedia, and although his English was limited, it was enough for communication. When we asked about the guide, we were told that she would join us along the way.

The car headed towards another part of Tbilisi, and after traveling some distance, it stopped by the side of the road. A girl with a dramatic makeup, sunglasses, and a confident smile entered the car and introduced herself as Rosa, our guide for the day. She immediately said, "I’m Rosa, let’s go!" – and that was the last time she spoke to us.

Unfortunately, Rosa’s silence throughout the trip was a bit disappointing. She didn’t answer any of our questions fully, providing only one-word responses in English. Whether it was due to her limited knowledge of English or simply a lack of interest in sharing details about the places we were visiting, we couldn't understand. After the excellent guidance we had from Mary, this felt like a major drop in quality. We tried to communicate with the driver, who attempted to explain things in English, but it wasn't the same.

As we continued, we soon realized that the long drive was merely to pick up Rosa, and it felt like a waste of time. Despite our dissatisfaction, we didn’t say much, choosing to move forward.

Leaving the city behind, the landscape shifted drastically. We were now in rural areas with vast grasslands and small hills, creating a scene that felt like it had jumped out of a wallpaper. The fields were alive with herds of cattle, and we even saw horses and ducks in some areas. It was a beautiful and interesting sight, and although the guide wasn't engaging, we couldn't help but enjoy the landscape's natural charm.

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Exploring Signagi

The weather today was slightly different from the past two days, with some sunshine, which made me feel a bit uncomfortable. The photos I took didn't seem to capture the full beauty due to this shift in the weather. We stopped at the first location on our journey, where there was a statue and a large field. When I asked what it was, Rosa simply said, "It’s a place for taking photos."

 


 

Our next stop was a viewpoint offering a stunning view of Signagi Town from afar. On either side of the road, towering pine trees added a touch of beauty to the landscape. From here, you could clearly see Signagi Town in the distance. The distinctive buildings of the town were the main attraction here, each with its own unique character. The town’s architecture stood out, making it an ideal spot to enjoy the view and reflect on the journey so far.

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Saint Nino Monastery – A Historic Treasure

The most significant attraction today was the Bodbe Monastery (Saint Nino Monastery), a historic site built in the 9th century and extensively renovated in the 17th century. It is here that Saint Nino is believed to have brought and spread Christianity in Georgia many centuries ago. Her relics are preserved within the monastery, which also serves as a training center for nuns. Alongside, there are gardens cultivating flowers and fruits, contributing to the serene environment.


 

Due to the sunlight casting long shadows, the beauty of the photographs was somewhat diminished. I noticed Rosa thoughtfully standing on the right side, much like she had in previous stops. Her pose was consistent everywhere, almost as if it was part of the journey itself.

The surroundings were made even more attractive by the rolling fields and trees in varying hues, giving the place a calm, inviting atmosphere. A well-maintained field beside a building under construction added a rustic charm, becoming an ideal spot for more photographs, capturing the essence of the place beautifully.

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The Wall of Alaverdi - A Historic Defense

After spending about an hour at the Saint Nino Monastery, we continued our journey, though Rosa didn’t provide any details about where we were headed or what we were going to see. After a while, the car stopped at a location, and Rosa asked us to get out. Without saying anything further, we stepped out, and it was only when we climbed a watchtower nearby that we noticed the remarkable view.


 

Stretching like something out of China's Great Wall, there was an immense wall. The watchtower where we stood was just one of many built along this wall. When we inquired about it, the answer we received was that it had been built for security in the past.

Later, through Mary, we learned more details about this historic wall. Located in the Alazani Valley, at the foot of the Caucasus Mountains, this defensive structure dates back to the 17th century. The wall was built to protect the region from enemy invasions, and people from nearby areas used to seek shelter here when under attack. The wall stretches for about 5 km, and according to Mary, it holds the second position in length among similar defensive walls in Asia.

It was fascinating to learn about the wall's historical significance and its role in safeguarding the people of this region centuries ago.

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Freedom Square and Rustaveli Avenue

After opting out of the winery visit, we began our return journey, which unexpectedly wrapped up early, finishing by 4 PM instead of the expected 6 PM. This left me wondering if there was any other spot I could visit before the day ended. The nearest tourist destination was about 20 km away, but by the time we had lunch and got ready, it was already 5 PM, and the light was beginning to fade. I quickly dismissed that plan.


 

The only remaining option was a city walk, something I had postponed earlier. Cities have a distinct charm that landscapes often lack, especially once the light begins to dim. While landscapes are beautiful during the day, cities come alive at night, showcasing a completely different aura. After a short rest, I decided to explore the city on foot.

I downloaded the Maps.me app on the hotel Wi-Fi and opted for a self-guided walk, not wanting to ask for directions. My first destination was Freedom Square, which wasn't far from the Georgian Parliament Building. From there, I continued to the bustling Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi's vibrant and beautiful street, home to the parliament building. I had seen it from the car earlier, but now I had the chance to stroll through it on foot, with Mary having suggested this during our free time.

The avenue was relatively quiet, which allowed me to take a few photographs. At Freedom Square, the road cuts across the square, and there's a pedestrian passageway beneath it. The area has a small market vibe, with shops lining both sides of the street.

It was a pleasant, reflective walk through the heart of Tbilisi, as I captured the architecture and life around me, enjoying the tranquility of the city at dusk.

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Exploring the Georgian Parliament

After crossing through the subway, I reached the opposite side of the road and walked for a few minutes until I arrived at the Georgian Parliament Building. There were no significant security checks or restrictions in sight. This building, constructed in 1938 during the Soviet era, served as the main parliament building until a new one was constructed in Kutaisi. However, due to pressure from various representatives, operations were shifted back to this building. In front of the parliament, a massive Christmas tree had been set up, adding to the festive atmosphere.

Despite the picturesque surroundings, I couldn't find a good vantage point to capture the entire building in one shot. So, I had to make do with the photo I had taken at that moment.

The area around the parliament is well-maintained, with trees lining a beautiful walkway. There are benches around each tree, creating a peaceful space. The lighting arrangements are excellent, offering a great ambiance for photography. It’s the perfect spot to take photos, but a good camera and knowledge of low-light photography are essential to capture the beauty.

I have seen many people with expensive DSLR cameras, yet they often take poor photos in auto mode, especially in low light. I also assisted a couple who seemed to be on their honeymoon, helping them with taking photos. For those interested in photography, it’s important to learn how to take great night shots, as relying on auto mode can often fail to deliver the desired results at night. Daylight assistance doesn’t work well when the lighting conditions change in the evening!

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Exploring Tbilisi: From Peace Bridge to Farewell

After resting near the Georgian Parliament, I decided to head to Peace Bridge, located about 2.5 km away. However, the confusion began when I asked for directions, as the locals used a Georgian name for the bridge, which left many people unsure of where it was. Despite asking several people, we ended up retracing our steps and returning to the starting point, leaving four members of our group feeling disappointed that they couldn’t see the bridge.


 

Not giving up, two of us ventured out once more. This time, we quickly found the correct path, avoiding any further confusion. The town was bustling with tourists, yet there was no overwhelming crowd, and walking through it felt relaxing. As we got closer to the heart of the city, we found another bridge parallel to the Peace Bridge for vehicles, crossing the Kura River. From here, we had a stunning view of the Peace Bridge and its reflection, which made for perfect photo opportunities. The spot was quiet, allowing us to comfortably take photos without interruptions.

As we prepared to leave, we noticed the statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali standing in the moonlight. It was the same statue we had seen on the first day of our visit, but now we were viewing it from a different angle. The view from the bridge also showcased the Mother of Georgia Monument and St. Nicholas Church, perched on the hill—familiar landmarks from the city tour we had taken earlier.

Next, we admired the view of Ryne Park as we made our way toward Peace Bridge. The area was peaceful with only a few visitors, and it had an incredible beauty that was magnified at night. From here, we also saw the Tbilisi Funicular Hotel and the large Watch Tower on the hilltop, both mentioned in the city tour earlier.

Attempting to capture a light trail photo with the cars below, I realized that the bridge swayed slightly when vehicles passed, so I had to abandon the idea. Instead, we focused on taking photos of each other in the beautiful setting.

Despite our desire to visit a few more places, concerns about safety made us decide to head back. Tomorrow morning at 9 am, our driver Mr. Imedia would pick us up for the airport, so we wrapped up our evening. I had packed everything the night before, feeling content with the three days spent exploring Georgia. Though we didn’t see everything, I thought to myself that a future trip to explore the unseen parts of Georgia wouldn’t be a problem.

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