When Wishes Align...

This time, my thoughts turned to Aseer from Road Tales, a travel company organizing trips to Turkey and Dubai. My first experience with them was during a visit to Turkey, and the familiarity lingered since then. One day, on a whim, I asked Aseer whether we could explore Italy or Kazakhstan. Coincidentally, Aseer was already considering a visit to Kazakhstan to explore opportunities for starting his own travel business there. That’s when I got the call. It was as if my wish and destiny had aligned perfectly—Kazakhstan it was!

From there, everything moved quickly. Within a day or two, the dates for the trip were finalized. Two days for travel, ten days to explore, making it a total of 12 days for the trip.

Planning is Key

Traveling to another country without a package deal demands meticulous planning. While gathering information is relatively easy in this digital age, it does require a significant investment of time. I dedicated almost a month to this planning process. Though physically in Oman, my mind was already in Kazakhstan for over a month.

Google, the Star of the Show

The first step was identifying the major tourist attractions in Kazakhstan, which was easy enough with Google. However, I found the most valuable insights in travel blogs written by previous visitors. Based on these, I created a list of destinations that aligned with our preferences. The next challenge was understanding where these places were located within Kazakhstan. If all the must-see spots were scattered across the country's borders, visiting them all in one trip would be impossible.

A closer look at the map revealed that 90% of the destinations on my list were in the eastern and northern parts of Kazakhstan. This allowed us to create a 10-day itinerary that was both practical and efficient.

Treading the Road Less Traveled

Most tourists to Kazakhstan tend to visit the old capital, Almaty, and its surrounding areas, but rarely venture to the new capital, Astana. Despite its beauty, Astana has yet to attract widespread attention from travelers. Some popular vloggers who visited Astana remarked on its charm but also noted the lack of tourists. This made us decide to include Astana in our itinerary alongside Almaty.

How to Travel Within Kazakhstan

The next question was how to get around within the country. After much deliberation, we decided to rent a car and drive ourselves. However, renting a vehicle isn’t as straightforward as it sounds. Exploring the lakes and mountains around Almaty requires a 4-wheel drive, which can be quite expensive. Both international rental companies like Avis, Europcar, and Hertz, as well as local Kazakh companies, offer car rentals. While local companies might have lower rates, they often provide only third-party insurance coverage, which is risky.

To avoid unnecessary risks, we opted for full insurance from an international company and rented a Volkswagen Polo sedan from Avis for Astana and its surroundings, as there weren’t any off-road routes there. For Almaty, however, off-road travel was essential. After comparing options, we booked a Mitsubishi L200 pickup, which offered decent off-road capabilities at a relatively reasonable price.

I also arranged for an International Driving License, which was a simple process with my Oman license.

Kilometer Limits and Route Adjustments

Rental vehicles in Kazakhstan often come with a daily kilometer limit, beyond which additional charges apply. Initially, we planned to drive 1,250 km from Almaty to Astana, but the lack of unlimited mileage options forced us to reconsider. Additionally, a recent visitor advised against long drives on remote Kazakh roads during September, as snow had already begun to fall, making the journey risky.

We decided to fly or take a train to Astana instead. Speed trains take 15-16 hours, while regular trains take 22-24 hours. To maximize our sightseeing time, we chose to fly. Airlines like Air Astana, Fly Arystan, and SCAT Airlines offer multiple daily flights from Almaty to Astana at affordable rates.

How to Reach Kazakhstan

SalamAir recently started offering budget-friendly flights to Almaty, with plans to extend services to Astana in the future. On my flight to Almaty, I met Malayalis traveling via SalamAir’s connecting flight from Muscat. The world is truly becoming smaller, with more countries now accessible even from India.

Indians do not require a visa to visit Kazakhstan, and the country is budget-friendly, making it a potential hotspot for Indian tourists in the future. Currently, the easiest and most cost-effective route for Malayalis is via Oman using SalamAir.

Weather is Crucial

The timing of your visit plays a critical role. Cold weather begins in mid-September in Kazakhstan, with heavy snowfall and icy winds from November onward. Many tourist attractions may be inaccessible due to poor weather conditions. The stunning photos you see on Google may not reflect what you’ll encounter during winter. Therefore, planning your trip around favorable weather conditions is essential for an enjoyable experience.

When Wishes Align...

This time, my thoughts turned to Aseer from Road Tales, a travel company organizing trips to Turkey and Dubai. My first experience with them was during a visit to Turkey, and the familiarity lingered since then. One day, on a whim, I asked Aseer whether we could explore Italy or Kazakhstan. Coincidentally, Aseer was already considering a visit to Kazakhstan to explore opportunities for starting his own travel business there. That’s when I got the call. It was as if my wish and destiny had aligned perfectly—Kazakhstan it was!

From there, everything moved quickly. Within a day or two, the dates for the trip were finalized. Two days for travel, ten days to explore, making it a total of 12 days for the trip.

Planning is Key

Traveling to another country without a package deal demands meticulous planning. While gathering information is relatively easy in this digital age, it does require a significant investment of time. I dedicated almost a month to this planning process. Though physically in Oman, my mind was already in Kazakhstan for over a month.

Google, the Star of the Show

The first step was identifying the major tourist attractions in Kazakhstan, which was easy enough with Google. However, I found the most valuable insights in travel blogs written by previous visitors. Based on these, I created a list of destinations that aligned with our preferences. The next challenge was understanding where these places were located within Kazakhstan. If all the must-see spots were scattered across the country's borders, visiting them all in one trip would be impossible.

A closer look at the map revealed that 90% of the destinations on my list were in the eastern and northern parts of Kazakhstan. This allowed us to create a 10-day itinerary that was both practical and efficient.

Treading the Road Less Traveled

Most tourists to Kazakhstan tend to visit the old capital, Almaty, and its surrounding areas, but rarely venture to the new capital, Astana. Despite its beauty, Astana has yet to attract widespread attention from travelers. Some popular vloggers who visited Astana remarked on its charm but also noted the lack of tourists. This made us decide to include Astana in our itinerary alongside Almaty.

How to Travel Within Kazakhstan

The next question was how to get around within the country. After much deliberation, we decided to rent a car and drive ourselves. However, renting a vehicle isn’t as straightforward as it sounds. Exploring the lakes and mountains around Almaty requires a 4-wheel drive, which can be quite expensive. Both international rental companies like Avis, Europcar, and Hertz, as well as local Kazakh companies, offer car rentals. While local companies might have lower rates, they often provide only third-party insurance coverage, which is risky.

To avoid unnecessary risks, we opted for full insurance from an international company and rented a Volkswagen Polo sedan from Avis for Astana and its surroundings, as there weren’t any off-road routes there. For Almaty, however, off-road travel was essential. After comparing options, we booked a Mitsubishi L200 pickup, which offered decent off-road capabilities at a relatively reasonable price.

I also arranged for an International Driving License, which was a simple process with my Oman license.

Kilometer Limits and Route Adjustments

Rental vehicles in Kazakhstan often come with a daily kilometer limit, beyond which additional charges apply. Initially, we planned to drive 1,250 km from Almaty to Astana, but the lack of unlimited mileage options forced us to reconsider. Additionally, a recent visitor advised against long drives on remote Kazakh roads during September, as snow had already begun to fall, making the journey risky.

We decided to fly or take a train to Astana instead. Speed trains take 15-16 hours, while regular trains take 22-24 hours. To maximize our sightseeing time, we chose to fly. Airlines like Air Astana, Fly Arystan, and SCAT Airlines offer multiple daily flights from Almaty to Astana at affordable rates.

How to Reach Kazakhstan

SalamAir recently started offering budget-friendly flights to Almaty, with plans to extend services to Astana in the future. On my flight to Almaty, I met Malayalis traveling via SalamAir’s connecting flight from Muscat. The world is truly becoming smaller, with more countries now accessible even from India.

Indians do not require a visa to visit Kazakhstan, and the country is budget-friendly, making it a potential hotspot for Indian tourists in the future. Currently, the easiest and most cost-effective route for Malayalis is via Oman using SalamAir.

Weather is Crucial

The timing of your visit plays a critical role. Cold weather begins in mid-September in Kazakhstan, with heavy snowfall and icy winds from November onward. Many tourist attractions may be inaccessible due to poor weather conditions. The stunning photos you see on Google may not reflect what you’ll encounter during winter. Therefore, planning your trip around favorable weather conditions is essential for an enjoyable experience.

My friend Aseer had arrived in Almaty the day before the journey. We met at Almaty Airport. I was concerned that my flight, which was supposed to land at noon, might be delayed, so we opted for a FlyArystan flight departing for Astana at 7:30 pm. The interesting thing was that we were the only two foreigners on that flight.

Astana is located to the northwest of Almaty, a place that experiences colder weather and more snowfall. So, we decided to spend our first few days in Astana before returning to Almaty, hoping to enjoy it before the cold intensified.

Accommodation: Where and How?

In both Almaty and Astana, affordable hotels and apartments are readily available. During the winter, there are fewer visitors, so finding a room isn't a problem. We booked our accommodations through sites like Agoda and Booking.com. Apartments and home stays are available at low prices. We didn't book rooms in advance; we booked them as we went, which worked out to our advantage, as it allowed us to adjust our plans based on the situation. However, this approach might backfire during peak tourist seasons when bookings are more in demand.

Astana: A City Without Tourists

When we arrived at Astana Nur Sultan Airport, we were met with an intense cold, and our limbs were frozen. Upon reaching Avis’s office, I asked if the car I had booked for the next day would be available right then. The response was that due to the heavy snowfall expected the next day, it would be dangerous to provide a vehicle without winter tires. Initially shocked, I called the head office, and they confirmed that the car would be ready by noon the next day with winter tires fitted.

Language Barriers in Kazakhstan

For travelers in Kazakhstan, the biggest challenge is the language. Even in hotels, it’s rare to find anyone who speaks English. Kazakh and Russian are the primary languages spoken. Since Turkish is somewhat similar to Kazakh, a few words in Turkish can be understood. We had to rely on Google Translate for communication. Typing on the phone and showing it to them worked fine. This has become a part of their daily life.

Discount for a Full Tank

Kazakhstan is one of the countries where petrol is cheaper than bottled water. Gas prices here are lower than in GCC countries. The country’s primary income comes from oil. When we filled up the tank for 13,000 tenge, we received a 1,500 tenge discount. This price difference is reflected on the roads, as many luxurious cars with a mileage of only 5-6 km per liter are seen on the roads. Cars from all companies line the streets, with American and European cars being relatively few. Chinese cars have captured a large share of the Kazakhstan market.

My friend Aseer had arrived in Almaty the day before the journey. We met at Almaty Airport. I was concerned that my flight, which was supposed to land at noon, might be delayed, so we opted for a FlyArystan flight departing for Astana at 7:30 pm. The interesting thing was that we were the only two foreigners on that flight.

Astana is located to the northwest of Almaty, a place that experiences colder weather and more snowfall. So, we decided to spend our first few days in Astana before returning to Almaty, hoping to enjoy it before the cold intensified.

Accommodation: Where and How?

In both Almaty and Astana, affordable hotels and apartments are readily available. During the winter, there are fewer visitors, so finding a room isn't a problem. We booked our accommodations through sites like Agoda and Booking.com. Apartments and home stays are available at low prices. We didn't book rooms in advance; we booked them as we went, which worked out to our advantage, as it allowed us to adjust our plans based on the situation. However, this approach might backfire during peak tourist seasons when bookings are more in demand.

Astana: A City Without Tourists

When we arrived at Astana Nur Sultan Airport, we were met with an intense cold, and our limbs were frozen. Upon reaching Avis’s office, I asked if the car I had booked for the next day would be available right then. The response was that due to the heavy snowfall expected the next day, it would be dangerous to provide a vehicle without winter tires. Initially shocked, I called the head office, and they confirmed that the car would be ready by noon the next day with winter tires fitted.

Language Barriers in Kazakhstan

For travelers in Kazakhstan, the biggest challenge is the language. Even in hotels, it’s rare to find anyone who speaks English. Kazakh and Russian are the primary languages spoken. Since Turkish is somewhat similar to Kazakh, a few words in Turkish can be understood. We had to rely on Google Translate for communication. Typing on the phone and showing it to them worked fine. This has become a part of their daily life.

Discount for a Full Tank

Kazakhstan is one of the countries where petrol is cheaper than bottled water. Gas prices here are lower than in GCC countries. The country’s primary income comes from oil. When we filled up the tank for 13,000 tenge, we received a 1,500 tenge discount. This price difference is reflected on the roads, as many luxurious cars with a mileage of only 5-6 km per liter are seen on the roads. Cars from all companies line the streets, with American and European cars being relatively few. Chinese cars have captured a large share of the Kazakhstan market.

Other architectural marvels in Astana include the Central Concert Hall and the National Museum. While attempting to capture a photograph of the Central Concert Hall, I encountered a hurdle at the parking area, as security informed me that access was restricted to event attendees. Despite driving around in search of another parking spot, the effort was futile, and I had to abandon the attempt.

Other architectural marvels in Astana include the Central Concert Hall and the National Museum. While attempting to capture a photograph of the Central Concert Hall, I encountered a hurdle at the parking area, as security informed me that access was restricted to event attendees. Despite driving around in search of another parking spot, the effort was futile, and I had to abandon the attempt.

Burabay is famous for its lake and a trekking point offering panoramic views from above. The view from the top is said to be unforgettable. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, the weather was far from conducive to trekking. Reluctantly, we resolved to admire the lake from below and then leave.

As we drove closer, the snow on the road began causing the car to skid, making it difficult to brake. We were still 20 km away from the main viewpoint. Just as we started considering turning back, Google Maps showed a spot where the road passed very close to the lake. Hoping to catch a glimpse from there, we pushed ahead.

Reaching that point, we parked the car and stepped out. Before us stretched an endless expanse of the lake, its shores entirely blanketed in snow. Across the lake, the mountains loomed through breaks in the heavy clouds, creating a breathtakingly surreal scene. The sight filled us with an overwhelming sense of wonder.

We could only spend a short time there as darkness quickly began to fall. Hastily, we started our return journey to Astana. By then, the snowfall had intensified, reducing visibility to almost nothing. The road became treacherous, with strong winds shaking the car violently. It was, without a doubt, one of the most perilous journeys we had ever undertaken. We only made it back to Astana late at night, utterly exhausted.

Our visit to Burabay was incomplete; we couldn't fully experience its true beauty. Yet, if I were to return to Kazakhstan solely to witness Burabay again, it would come as no surprise.

By the next evening, we bid farewell to the city of Astana. Undeterred by the heavy fog and strong winds, the Air Astana flight carried us safely to Almaty. Stay tuned for the highlights of Almaty in the next post!

Burabay is famous for its lake and a trekking point offering panoramic views from above. The view from the top is said to be unforgettable. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, the weather was far from conducive to trekking. Reluctantly, we resolved to admire the lake from below and then leave.

As we drove closer, the snow on the road began causing the car to skid, making it difficult to brake. We were still 20 km away from the main viewpoint. Just as we started considering turning back, Google Maps showed a spot where the road passed very close to the lake. Hoping to catch a glimpse from there, we pushed ahead.

Reaching that point, we parked the car and stepped out. Before us stretched an endless expanse of the lake, its shores entirely blanketed in snow. Across the lake, the mountains loomed through breaks in the heavy clouds, creating a breathtakingly surreal scene. The sight filled us with an overwhelming sense of wonder.

We could only spend a short time there as darkness quickly began to fall. Hastily, we started our return journey to Astana. By then, the snowfall had intensified, reducing visibility to almost nothing. The road became treacherous, with strong winds shaking the car violently. It was, without a doubt, one of the most perilous journeys we had ever undertaken. We only made it back to Astana late at night, utterly exhausted.

Our visit to Burabay was incomplete; we couldn't fully experience its true beauty. Yet, if I were to return to Kazakhstan solely to witness Burabay again, it would come as no surprise.

By the next evening, we bid farewell to the city of Astana. Undeterred by the heavy fog and strong winds, the Air Astana flight carried us safely to Almaty. Stay tuned for the highlights of Almaty in the next post!

The following day, we went to the Avis office in the city. There was a long row of cars and pickups parked there. They had prepared a manual Toyota Hilux pickup instead of the L200 we had booked. Since we weren’t keen on a manual model, they offered us an upgraded Prado with modified suspension, bumpers, and mud-terrain tires, perfect for off-road adventures, for a small additional fee. We happily accepted the offer

The following day, we went to the Avis office in the city. There was a long row of cars and pickups parked there. They had prepared a manual Toyota Hilux pickup instead of the L200 we had booked. Since we weren’t keen on a manual model, they offered us an upgraded Prado with modified suspension, bumpers, and mud-terrain tires, perfect for off-road adventures, for a small additional fee. We happily accepted the offer

Climbing 12 km uphill would take 3-4 hours, and with the drizzle making the conditions challenging, we decided against renting bikes and turned back. We did manage to capture some stunning photos of the snow-covered surroundings, though. This was one of those moments when planning based on Google searches from another country showed its limitations—some of the latest local information wasn’t available to us.

With a tinge of disappointment at having faced a setback on our first day in Almaty, we decided to visit the Ascension Cathedral, also known as Zenkov Cathedral, located in Panfilov Park. Big Almaty Lake wasn’t originally part of our plan, so missing it didn’t bother us much. What troubled us more was the thought of whether we might encounter similar restrictions at the other two lakes we had planned to visit.

Climbing 12 km uphill would take 3-4 hours, and with the drizzle making the conditions challenging, we decided against renting bikes and turned back. We did manage to capture some stunning photos of the snow-covered surroundings, though. This was one of those moments when planning based on Google searches from another country showed its limitations—some of the latest local information wasn’t available to us.

With a tinge of disappointment at having faced a setback on our first day in Almaty, we decided to visit the Ascension Cathedral, also known as Zenkov Cathedral, located in Panfilov Park. Big Almaty Lake wasn’t originally part of our plan, so missing it didn’t bother us much. What troubled us more was the thought of whether we might encounter similar restrictions at the other two lakes we had planned to visit.

We had many questions: Are the two lakes in the same location? Can they be visited in a single day? How far apart are they? After reading numerous blogs and meticulously analyzing Kazakhstan maps, we finally pieced together the required details.

Traveling 100 km from Charyn brings you to Saty, a small village at the entrance to the region. The off-road journey to Kaindy Lake begins just before Saty's main gate. If you continue another 25 km past Saty, you’ll arrive at Kurmenty, where Kolsai Lake is located. Both villages, Saty and Kurmenty, serve as bases for visitors exploring these lakes. Accommodation options range from yurts and homestays to guesthouses and apartments, though facilities are generally basic.

In Kazakhstan, online bookings don’t require advance payments; you can pay upon arrival. However, if you fail to show up on time, the room may be given to other guests. We experienced this firsthand when we arrived two hours later than planned in Kurmenty, only to find that our budget room had been reassigned. With the hotel fully booked and the biting cold setting in, we had no choice but to stay in a more luxurious apartment at double the cost.

Many tour packages from Almaty include Charyn Canyon, Kolsai, and Kaindy Lakes. Some offer whirlwind one-day trips, while others span two days. However, trying to see all three in a single day means you’ll only get a rushed overview. The ideal plan is to leave Almaty early in the morning, thoroughly enjoy Charyn Canyon, and then stay overnight in Saty or Kurmenty. The next day can be dedicated to leisurely exploring both lakes, ensuring ample time at each location to fully appreciate their beauty.

We had many questions: Are the two lakes in the same location? Can they be visited in a single day? How far apart are they? After reading numerous blogs and meticulously analyzing Kazakhstan maps, we finally pieced together the required details.

Traveling 100 km from Charyn brings you to Saty, a small village at the entrance to the region. The off-road journey to Kaindy Lake begins just before Saty's main gate. If you continue another 25 km past Saty, you’ll arrive at Kurmenty, where Kolsai Lake is located. Both villages, Saty and Kurmenty, serve as bases for visitors exploring these lakes. Accommodation options range from yurts and homestays to guesthouses and apartments, though facilities are generally basic.

In Kazakhstan, online bookings don’t require advance payments; you can pay upon arrival. However, if you fail to show up on time, the room may be given to other guests. We experienced this firsthand when we arrived two hours later than planned in Kurmenty, only to find that our budget room had been reassigned. With the hotel fully booked and the biting cold setting in, we had no choice but to stay in a more luxurious apartment at double the cost.

Many tour packages from Almaty include Charyn Canyon, Kolsai, and Kaindy Lakes. Some offer whirlwind one-day trips, while others span two days. However, trying to see all three in a single day means you’ll only get a rushed overview. The ideal plan is to leave Almaty early in the morning, thoroughly enjoy Charyn Canyon, and then stay overnight in Saty or Kurmenty. The next day can be dedicated to leisurely exploring both lakes, ensuring ample time at each location to fully appreciate their beauty.

Kazakh people seem naturally skilled in horse riding. From shepherds herding goats to locals ascending steep mountain trails, the horse is an indispensable companion. Its presence not only enhances the visual charm of the countryside but also reflects the deep cultural connection Kazakhs have with these majestic creatures.

Photos taken on the way from Almaty to Sharyn Canyon.

Kazakh people seem naturally skilled in horse riding. From shepherds herding goats to locals ascending steep mountain trails, the horse is an indispensable companion. Its presence not only enhances the visual charm of the countryside but also reflects the deep cultural connection Kazakhs have with these majestic creatures.

Photos taken on the way from Almaty to Sharyn Canyon.

Earlier, private vehicles were allowed to travel through the canyon. However, now only authorized vans operate within the canyon. For those who find it difficult to walk through the canyon for an hour, tickets can be purchased to use these van services.

Earlier, private vehicles were allowed to travel through the canyon. However, now only authorized vans operate within the canyon. For those who find it difficult to walk through the canyon for an hour, tickets can be purchased to use these van services.

Reaching the Second Lake, however, requires a four-hour trek uphill, and the journey to the Third Lake involves an equally challenging hike. Due to the difficulty of these treks, only a handful of adventurous travelers make it to the higher lakes. Interestingly, the Third Kolsai Lake is located near the Kyrgyzstan border, where passports and other documents are checked by the local authorities.

Many blogs mention the treacherous off-road journey to Kolsai Lakes, crossing rivers and rugged terrain. However, this is now a thing of the past. There is a paved road leading directly to the First Lake, making it accessible by any vehicle. For Kaindy Lake, though, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is still essential.

Reaching the Second Lake, however, requires a four-hour trek uphill, and the journey to the Third Lake involves an equally challenging hike. Due to the difficulty of these treks, only a handful of adventurous travelers make it to the higher lakes. Interestingly, the Third Kolsai Lake is located near the Kyrgyzstan border, where passports and other documents are checked by the local authorities.

Many blogs mention the treacherous off-road journey to Kolsai Lakes, crossing rivers and rugged terrain. However, this is now a thing of the past. There is a paved road leading directly to the First Lake, making it accessible by any vehicle. For Kaindy Lake, though, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is still essential.

Kaindy Lake is a visual delight, offering a serene and unique landscape. Its origin adds to its mystique: over a century ago, a powerful earthquake triggered a landslide along the Kaindy Riverbanks, blocking the river's flow and forming the lake. The area, once a forest, was submerged, and the sunken trees remain preserved underwater, their trunks protruding above the lake's surface. This haunting yet beautiful sight sets Kaindy Lake apart as a natural wonder.

Kaindy Lake is a visual delight, offering a serene and unique landscape. Its origin adds to its mystique: over a century ago, a powerful earthquake triggered a landslide along the Kaindy Riverbanks, blocking the river's flow and forming the lake. The area, once a forest, was submerged, and the sunken trees remain preserved underwater, their trunks protruding above the lake's surface. This haunting yet beautiful sight sets Kaindy Lake apart as a natural wonder.

While planning our journey, we considered staying in a yurt for a day or two. However, the uncertainty about how comfortable it would be in the freezing cold made us reconsider.

That said, staying in a yurt during the summer would undoubtedly be an extraordinary experience. Imagine spending nights in a yurt nestled in the verdant valleys, with streams meandering through the serene landscape. Just picturing such a stay, surrounded by nature, brings a chill of excitement and awe.

While planning our journey, we considered staying in a yurt for a day or two. However, the uncertainty about how comfortable it would be in the freezing cold made us reconsider.

That said, staying in a yurt during the summer would undoubtedly be an extraordinary experience. Imagine spending nights in a yurt nestled in the verdant valleys, with streams meandering through the serene landscape. Just picturing such a stay, surrounded by nature, brings a chill of excitement and awe.

The journey from Kurmenty to Altyn-Emel spans 330 kilometers, and the roads in Kazakhstan, as we soon discovered, are far from ideal. They are riddled with potholes, poorly maintained, and lack streetlights, making nighttime driving particularly risky. Despite our concerns, we set out, thinking we could always stop midway if needed.

A Miscalculated Decision
The drive turned out to be far more challenging than anticipated—not because of the bad roads alone, but due to an intense snowstorm. Visibility dropped to just a few meters, making it difficult to see even the road ahead. Narrow, pothole-ridden roads combined with the blizzard made us realize the mistake of driving at night.

Adding to the tension, there were no hotels or homes along the route to stop at, and our car was running low on fuel. In the biting cold and dense fog, running out of fuel would have left us stranded and at risk of being rear-ended by other vehicles due to low visibility.

In Kazakhstan, it’s wise to refuel at every available petrol station—something we remembered all too late. Thankfully, before we ran out, we came across a small petrol pump. Unlike larger stations, these are often unmanned at night, with only a small window for transactions. You pay first and then refuel yourself. Relieved to have refueled, we pressed on.

Finally, a Resting Place
After several grueling hours, we reached Baqshi at 11 PM, utterly exhausted. With no open shops along the way, we had to skip dinner that night. Fortunately, we found a relatively comfortable guesthouse to stay in.

This experience taught us a crucial lesson: no matter the season, avoid night driving in Kazakhstan. The roads, combined with unpredictable weather and lack of facilities, make it too risky. Always plan your journey to arrive at your destination well before dark.

The Silent Advice of a Kazakh Guide
During the planning phase of our trip, I had a conversation with a Kazakh travel guide. When I mentioned that we were considering driving from Almaty to Astana, the guide seemed visibly startled. His immediate response was, "I would never encourage that."

Back then, I brushed it off with a hint of bravado, recalling tales of long, uninterrupted drives. "I’ve driven 1000 kilometers in one go in Oman," I quipped confidently, as though this feat was no different. The guide, however, chose silence over argument, his expression neutral but telling.

It was only after completing the grueling Kazakh journey that I finally grasped the wisdom behind his unspoken words. His silence wasn’t dismissive—it was a quiet understanding of what awaited us on those endless, challenging roads.

Altyn Emel: A Marvelous World of Wonders
Altyn Emel is an expansive realm, largely unexplored by most travelers. Its gateway lies in the quiet village of Basshi. From there, one must secure tickets and permissions before entering this extraordinary national park. Adequate preparations, including food, water, and a fully fueled vehicle, are essential before setting off.

Once inside, the landscape transforms into an endless expanse of earth and sky, connected by winding, gravel roads stretching to the horizon. This vast terrain, a unique blend of gravel, rolling stones, desert, and sparse vegetation, feels like an entirely different planet. Altyn Emel National Park is home to over 1,800 plant species and around 60 species of animals, according to estimates.

Driving through the park, sightings of various animals are common. Horses, deer, and the kulan—a swift-moving Central Asian wild ass—dart across the landscape in herds. Watching these creatures sprinting at remarkable speeds, seemingly without a destination, fills one with awe and wonder. You can't help but ponder: where are they headed in such a hurry, with no one to chase or guide them?

The journey from Kurmenty to Altyn-Emel spans 330 kilometers, and the roads in Kazakhstan, as we soon discovered, are far from ideal. They are riddled with potholes, poorly maintained, and lack streetlights, making nighttime driving particularly risky. Despite our concerns, we set out, thinking we could always stop midway if needed.

A Miscalculated Decision
The drive turned out to be far more challenging than anticipated—not because of the bad roads alone, but due to an intense snowstorm. Visibility dropped to just a few meters, making it difficult to see even the road ahead. Narrow, pothole-ridden roads combined with the blizzard made us realize the mistake of driving at night.

Adding to the tension, there were no hotels or homes along the route to stop at, and our car was running low on fuel. In the biting cold and dense fog, running out of fuel would have left us stranded and at risk of being rear-ended by other vehicles due to low visibility.

In Kazakhstan, it’s wise to refuel at every available petrol station—something we remembered all too late. Thankfully, before we ran out, we came across a small petrol pump. Unlike larger stations, these are often unmanned at night, with only a small window for transactions. You pay first and then refuel yourself. Relieved to have refueled, we pressed on.

Finally, a Resting Place
After several grueling hours, we reached Baqshi at 11 PM, utterly exhausted. With no open shops along the way, we had to skip dinner that night. Fortunately, we found a relatively comfortable guesthouse to stay in.

This experience taught us a crucial lesson: no matter the season, avoid night driving in Kazakhstan. The roads, combined with unpredictable weather and lack of facilities, make it too risky. Always plan your journey to arrive at your destination well before dark.

The Silent Advice of a Kazakh Guide
During the planning phase of our trip, I had a conversation with a Kazakh travel guide. When I mentioned that we were considering driving from Almaty to Astana, the guide seemed visibly startled. His immediate response was, "I would never encourage that."

Back then, I brushed it off with a hint of bravado, recalling tales of long, uninterrupted drives. "I’ve driven 1000 kilometers in one go in Oman," I quipped confidently, as though this feat was no different. The guide, however, chose silence over argument, his expression neutral but telling.

It was only after completing the grueling Kazakh journey that I finally grasped the wisdom behind his unspoken words. His silence wasn’t dismissive—it was a quiet understanding of what awaited us on those endless, challenging roads.

Altyn Emel: A Marvelous World of Wonders
Altyn Emel is an expansive realm, largely unexplored by most travelers. Its gateway lies in the quiet village of Basshi. From there, one must secure tickets and permissions before entering this extraordinary national park. Adequate preparations, including food, water, and a fully fueled vehicle, are essential before setting off.

Once inside, the landscape transforms into an endless expanse of earth and sky, connected by winding, gravel roads stretching to the horizon. This vast terrain, a unique blend of gravel, rolling stones, desert, and sparse vegetation, feels like an entirely different planet. Altyn Emel National Park is home to over 1,800 plant species and around 60 species of animals, according to estimates.

Driving through the park, sightings of various animals are common. Horses, deer, and the kulan—a swift-moving Central Asian wild ass—dart across the landscape in herds. Watching these creatures sprinting at remarkable speeds, seemingly without a destination, fills one with awe and wonder. You can't help but ponder: where are they headed in such a hurry, with no one to chase or guide them?

What makes them extraordinary is the phenomenon that gives them their name. When strong winds blow over the dunes, they are said to produce a melodious sound, often likened to singing. Unfortunately, when we visited, the wind was calm, and we missed the opportunity to hear nature's song.

As someone familiar with the towering sand dunes back home, the sight of the Kazakh dunes wasn’t entirely novel. However, what truly amazed me was the sudden shift in the landscape. The endless gravel plains abruptly transformed into a valley surrounded by majestic mountains. The gravel roads slowly gave way to ice-laden paths, and just when you least expect it, a massive sand dune appears, seemingly out of nowhere, in a place you would never anticipate.

For someone who observes nature closely, this dramatic and unexpected change in scenery is nothing short of a marvel.

Route 2: Aktau and Katutau Rainbow Mountains

This route is slightly more challenging and longer than the first. It involves a 70-kilometer drive through rugged gravel roads. On such terrain, there’s an unspoken rule: “Step on the gas.” Driving at low speeds will make the vehicle shake uncontrollably, but maintaining a speed of 100-120 km/h provides a relatively smoother ride and helps you cover the distance faster.

The Aktau mountain range is a breathtaking spectacle, with its vibrant hues of white, black, yellow, orange, and brown. These striking colors have earned it the name Rainbow Mountains. The view is mesmerizing, and the unique patterns on the mountains make the journey worthwhile. It’s a fascinating natural wonder that will leave visitors in awe.

Route 3: Kapchagai Lake

This route features a large lake, Kapchagai, which is a popular attraction in the region. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit it. If I had to recommend one of the routes we explored, it would undoubtedly be the Aktau Rainbow Mountains. Their unique beauty and vibrant colors make them an unforgettable experience.

Tips for Driving in Kazakhstan
For those planning to drive in Kazakhstan, it’s essential to have 2-3 maps, including offline versions, on your mobile device. Download maps of your destinations in advance because many areas in Kazakhstan lack internet connectivity. The vast landscapes often present nothing but open skies above and endless terrain below, making navigation challenging without offline maps.

In the Altyn Emel National Park, we relied on maps.me, an offline map app, which proved to be extremely useful. Before leaving Oman, I had already downloaded the Kazakhstan maps in the app, and they guided us efficiently throughout the journey.

UNESCO Heritage Site
The Altyn Emel National Park is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which speaks volumes about its natural and cultural significance. After completing our exploration of Altyn Emel, we returned to Almaty, concluding a remarkable journey through one of Kazakhstan's most extraordinary landscapes.

What makes them extraordinary is the phenomenon that gives them their name. When strong winds blow over the dunes, they are said to produce a melodious sound, often likened to singing. Unfortunately, when we visited, the wind was calm, and we missed the opportunity to hear nature's song.

As someone familiar with the towering sand dunes back home, the sight of the Kazakh dunes wasn’t entirely novel. However, what truly amazed me was the sudden shift in the landscape. The endless gravel plains abruptly transformed into a valley surrounded by majestic mountains. The gravel roads slowly gave way to ice-laden paths, and just when you least expect it, a massive sand dune appears, seemingly out of nowhere, in a place you would never anticipate.

For someone who observes nature closely, this dramatic and unexpected change in scenery is nothing short of a marvel.

Route 2: Aktau and Katutau Rainbow Mountains

This route is slightly more challenging and longer than the first. It involves a 70-kilometer drive through rugged gravel roads. On such terrain, there’s an unspoken rule: “Step on the gas.” Driving at low speeds will make the vehicle shake uncontrollably, but maintaining a speed of 100-120 km/h provides a relatively smoother ride and helps you cover the distance faster.

The Aktau mountain range is a breathtaking spectacle, with its vibrant hues of white, black, yellow, orange, and brown. These striking colors have earned it the name Rainbow Mountains. The view is mesmerizing, and the unique patterns on the mountains make the journey worthwhile. It’s a fascinating natural wonder that will leave visitors in awe.

Route 3: Kapchagai Lake

This route features a large lake, Kapchagai, which is a popular attraction in the region. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit it. If I had to recommend one of the routes we explored, it would undoubtedly be the Aktau Rainbow Mountains. Their unique beauty and vibrant colors make them an unforgettable experience.

Tips for Driving in Kazakhstan
For those planning to drive in Kazakhstan, it’s essential to have 2-3 maps, including offline versions, on your mobile device. Download maps of your destinations in advance because many areas in Kazakhstan lack internet connectivity. The vast landscapes often present nothing but open skies above and endless terrain below, making navigation challenging without offline maps.

In the Altyn Emel National Park, we relied on maps.me, an offline map app, which proved to be extremely useful. Before leaving Oman, I had already downloaded the Kazakhstan maps in the app, and they guided us efficiently throughout the journey.

UNESCO Heritage Site
The Altyn Emel National Park is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which speaks volumes about its natural and cultural significance. After completing our exploration of Altyn Emel, we returned to Almaty, concluding a remarkable journey through one of Kazakhstan's most extraordinary landscapes.

However, the path to the top is notorious for being dangerous, especially in winter. During snow season, the roads become extremely hazardous, and it’s common for people to be restricted from going there. I read on Google that during the winter, the roads become impassable, and rental car companies don’t allow vehicles to be taken to Assi Plateau due to safety concerns. Still, we decided to give it a try and set our sights on reaching the plateau.

The road next to the Assi River is incredibly beautiful and enticing. However, as we reached the end of the paved road, snow started to cover the path. The car began sliding slightly as the snow gradually deepened. By the time we switched to dirt roads, the path was completely covered in snow. The combination of bad roads and snow was a risky mix. The Prado managed to move without much difficulty, but we knew that turning back wouldn’t be easy.

To reach the destination, we had to continue on the same snowy road for another 20 km, and there was no one else in sight. After 2-3 km, realizing the potential dangers, we decided to turn back. It was not worth risking our safety, and so, we chose to head back instead of pushing forward into the unknown.

However, the path to the top is notorious for being dangerous, especially in winter. During snow season, the roads become extremely hazardous, and it’s common for people to be restricted from going there. I read on Google that during the winter, the roads become impassable, and rental car companies don’t allow vehicles to be taken to Assi Plateau due to safety concerns. Still, we decided to give it a try and set our sights on reaching the plateau.

The road next to the Assi River is incredibly beautiful and enticing. However, as we reached the end of the paved road, snow started to cover the path. The car began sliding slightly as the snow gradually deepened. By the time we switched to dirt roads, the path was completely covered in snow. The combination of bad roads and snow was a risky mix. The Prado managed to move without much difficulty, but we knew that turning back wouldn’t be easy.

To reach the destination, we had to continue on the same snowy road for another 20 km, and there was no one else in sight. After 2-3 km, realizing the potential dangers, we decided to turn back. It was not worth risking our safety, and so, we chose to head back instead of pushing forward into the unknown.

When we arrived, the place was entirely quiet, with no one else around. We found a small area where we could drive down a gentle slope towards the lake. Carefully, we maneuvered the vehicle closer to the water's edge, allowing us to enjoy the tranquility and breathtaking view of Issyk Lake up close. The solitude of the place, combined with the calming sight of the icy waters, made it a perfect moment of respite.

When we arrived, the place was entirely quiet, with no one else around. We found a small area where we could drive down a gentle slope towards the lake. Carefully, we maneuvered the vehicle closer to the water's edge, allowing us to enjoy the tranquility and breathtaking view of Issyk Lake up close. The solitude of the place, combined with the calming sight of the icy waters, made it a perfect moment of respite.

One of the most popular attractions in Almaty for tourists is the Kok-Tobe Hill. Situated on top of a hill, Kok-Tobe offers souvenir shops, a children's park, and a small zoo. The hill provides a panoramic view of Almaty city, but due to the rain and snow, we couldn’t enjoy the view as much as we’d hoped. We spent some time buying souvenirs and then headed back.

Another key attraction for tourists in Almaty is Shymbulak Hill and its ski resort. Known for being a destination for skiing enthusiasts, Shymbulak is a beautiful spot for adventure lovers. However, since we had limited time, we just made a quick visit. To preserve the environment, only electric vehicles are now allowed to go up to Shymbulak. Unfortunately, I didn’t know this information while planning the trip. For those without electric vehicles, the only other options are to either walk or take a cable car up the hill.

Flavors of Kazakhstan – A Culinary Adventure

Kazakhstan’s food diversity is something I can’t leave without mentioning. The cuisine is full of flavor, variety, and novelty. Outside of the highest-end hotels, in mid-range places, you can find delicious meals at very reasonable prices. Meat dishes are the main highlight, and you’ll find horse meat and various dishes using horse milk commonly available.

One must definitely try the Tashkent tea, which is served in many hotels. However, finding rice, chapati, or dosa can be quite a challenge. We did come across a type of sweet biryani made with jackfruit and dried grapes, which was unique and called Beshbarmak. Horse meat and beef are often used in Beshbarmak, a well-known Kazakh dish.

Interestingly, people here seem to prefer soda over plain water. In many supermarkets, what appears to be water is often soda, and the difference is hard to notice. Out of the 8 bottles we picked up thinking they were water, 4 turned out to be soda. The small difference in the label’s color was what eventually helped us identify which ones were water. Also, alcohol is easily available in all supermarkets.

On our last night in Kazakhstan, we decided to have dinner at one of Almaty’s famous hotels, Sandyq. After days of eating at smaller hotels and fast food joints, we decided to indulge a little on the final day. The waiters reminded me of Emirates air hostesses, offering impeccable service. Though the food was on the pricier side, the taste, ambiance, and service made the price quite reasonable.

The Journey's Essence – A Reflection

While recounting the flavors and variety of the food, it’s worth mentioning that both of us felt discomfort in our stomachs after trying so many dishes. Luckily, we had the necessary medicines on hand, and thanks to that, we didn’t face any major issues. Unlike home, it’s hard to find a pharmacy in Kazakhstan, and getting any medical help can be a challenge.

Despite the language barrier, the people of Kazakhstan are very polite, helpful, and accommodating. If you ask for something, they will do their best to assist you. I remember a moment when we were struggling to pay for parking without a QR code. Seeing our difficulty, a kind person took money from his own pocket and paid for us.

The journey ended with a heart full of memories and a camera full of photos. Among all the travels I’ve had so far, the trip to Kazakhstan will undoubtedly be one of the most enjoyable ones. Because I planned the trip entirely myself, I gathered a wealth of knowledge about the country. We had similar tastes, so both of us enjoyed the journey equally. Driving over 2,000 km in a foreign country was a remarkable experience, and what made it even better was how effortlessly we navigated it.

There were no time constraints, no early-morning departures like group tours, and we could spend as much time as we wanted at places we liked. We could change plans on a whim and stop for food wherever we pleased. The freedom of renting a car, even though it added a bit to the cost, was invaluable. If you’re traveling with a group of four or more, renting a car and going on your own is definitely the best option.

Before You Go...

Most of the tourist attractions in Kazakhstan have been transformed into national parks, complete with gates and checkpoints. Entrance fees, both small and large, are charged at most places. Many areas also require some hiking, which might be a bit challenging for families with young children. If you're planning to visit with your family, it's advisable to avoid the colder seasons. In many places, temperatures can drop to 18-20°C, which may make outdoor activities less enjoyable.

It’s important to note that not all locations are accessible to everyone, as some areas might be difficult to reach due to the harsh weather conditions, and some sites may even be closed due to bad weather. By 5 PM, it starts getting dark, so the time available for sightseeing is limited.

While spring and autumn bring beauty to the landscape, the charm of winter in Kazakhstan is unparalleled. However, during the cold months, you’ll see dry, leafless trees and barren plains instead of the lush greenery seen in warmer seasons. Despite this, Kazakhstan in winter is a fantastic destination for those who enjoy the cold and snowy landscapes, offering a truly unique experience for winter lovers.

One of the most popular attractions in Almaty for tourists is the Kok-Tobe Hill. Situated on top of a hill, Kok-Tobe offers souvenir shops, a children's park, and a small zoo. The hill provides a panoramic view of Almaty city, but due to the rain and snow, we couldn’t enjoy the view as much as we’d hoped. We spent some time buying souvenirs and then headed back.

Another key attraction for tourists in Almaty is Shymbulak Hill and its ski resort. Known for being a destination for skiing enthusiasts, Shymbulak is a beautiful spot for adventure lovers. However, since we had limited time, we just made a quick visit. To preserve the environment, only electric vehicles are now allowed to go up to Shymbulak. Unfortunately, I didn’t know this information while planning the trip. For those without electric vehicles, the only other options are to either walk or take a cable car up the hill.

Flavors of Kazakhstan – A Culinary Adventure

Kazakhstan’s food diversity is something I can’t leave without mentioning. The cuisine is full of flavor, variety, and novelty. Outside of the highest-end hotels, in mid-range places, you can find delicious meals at very reasonable prices. Meat dishes are the main highlight, and you’ll find horse meat and various dishes using horse milk commonly available.

One must definitely try the Tashkent tea, which is served in many hotels. However, finding rice, chapati, or dosa can be quite a challenge. We did come across a type of sweet biryani made with jackfruit and dried grapes, which was unique and called Beshbarmak. Horse meat and beef are often used in Beshbarmak, a well-known Kazakh dish.

Interestingly, people here seem to prefer soda over plain water. In many supermarkets, what appears to be water is often soda, and the difference is hard to notice. Out of the 8 bottles we picked up thinking they were water, 4 turned out to be soda. The small difference in the label’s color was what eventually helped us identify which ones were water. Also, alcohol is easily available in all supermarkets.

On our last night in Kazakhstan, we decided to have dinner at one of Almaty’s famous hotels, Sandyq. After days of eating at smaller hotels and fast food joints, we decided to indulge a little on the final day. The waiters reminded me of Emirates air hostesses, offering impeccable service. Though the food was on the pricier side, the taste, ambiance, and service made the price quite reasonable.

The Journey's Essence – A Reflection

While recounting the flavors and variety of the food, it’s worth mentioning that both of us felt discomfort in our stomachs after trying so many dishes. Luckily, we had the necessary medicines on hand, and thanks to that, we didn’t face any major issues. Unlike home, it’s hard to find a pharmacy in Kazakhstan, and getting any medical help can be a challenge.

Despite the language barrier, the people of Kazakhstan are very polite, helpful, and accommodating. If you ask for something, they will do their best to assist you. I remember a moment when we were struggling to pay for parking without a QR code. Seeing our difficulty, a kind person took money from his own pocket and paid for us.

The journey ended with a heart full of memories and a camera full of photos. Among all the travels I’ve had so far, the trip to Kazakhstan will undoubtedly be one of the most enjoyable ones. Because I planned the trip entirely myself, I gathered a wealth of knowledge about the country. We had similar tastes, so both of us enjoyed the journey equally. Driving over 2,000 km in a foreign country was a remarkable experience, and what made it even better was how effortlessly we navigated it.

There were no time constraints, no early-morning departures like group tours, and we could spend as much time as we wanted at places we liked. We could change plans on a whim and stop for food wherever we pleased. The freedom of renting a car, even though it added a bit to the cost, was invaluable. If you’re traveling with a group of four or more, renting a car and going on your own is definitely the best option.

Before You Go...

Most of the tourist attractions in Kazakhstan have been transformed into national parks, complete with gates and checkpoints. Entrance fees, both small and large, are charged at most places. Many areas also require some hiking, which might be a bit challenging for families with young children. If you're planning to visit with your family, it's advisable to avoid the colder seasons. In many places, temperatures can drop to 18-20°C, which may make outdoor activities less enjoyable.

It’s important to note that not all locations are accessible to everyone, as some areas might be difficult to reach due to the harsh weather conditions, and some sites may even be closed due to bad weather. By 5 PM, it starts getting dark, so the time available for sightseeing is limited.

While spring and autumn bring beauty to the landscape, the charm of winter in Kazakhstan is unparalleled. However, during the cold months, you’ll see dry, leafless trees and barren plains instead of the lush greenery seen in warmer seasons. Despite this, Kazakhstan in winter is a fantastic destination for those who enjoy the cold and snowy landscapes, offering a truly unique experience for winter lovers.