Tamil Resonates in Malaysia

On the way to the airport, a voice message popped up from a Malaysian number. It was from a tour operator. Expecting English, I opened it, only to hear, “Sir… Namaskaram… I am Subra,” in impeccable Malayalam. At Kuala Lumpur Airport, we were greeted by Sulfikar Prakash, a Malaysian Tamilian. He spoke fluent Tamil and could communicate to some extent in English. Meanwhile, familiar music floated in from the FM channel in our mini-van: “Raja Raja Chozhan Naan…”

A Tamil FM channel in Malaysia, Tamil songs, and even a Malayalam voice message—what’s going on? Is this like Ghafoor’s friend dropping off Das and Vijayan in Madras? But joking aside, this is the reality.

About 6% of Malaysia’s population is of Tamil descent, descendants of those who migrated from Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Sri Lanka in the 18th century. They were brought in as plantation workers during British rule and have significantly contributed to Malaysia’s development. Today, approximately 2.4 million Tamils live in Malaysia, with over 500 Tamil-medium schools.

Except for road congestion, the journey from Kuala Lumpur Airport to the city hasn’t changed much since my visit in 2013. Back then, Kia cars were common, but by 2024, they seem to have vanished from the roads. The Malaysian brand Perodua now dominates the market, followed by Proton. Together with CAM, these brands control 80% of the market.

A Moment Before Departure

For years, Malaysia has been a popular travel destination for Indians, with affordable flight tickets from Kerala. Recently, visa-free entry for Indians has caused a surge in tourists, especially Malayalis. Social media is flooded with photos from Malaysia. Most tourists come in large tour groups through package deals. Local tour operators subcontract to Malaysian companies, arranging tours in mini-vans for 12–16 people or buses for 40–50.

For larger groups, these tours are convenient. However, in most cases, the drivers double as guides. Their enthusiasm for the job is questionable—they drive you to a location, give you 40 minutes to 2 hours, and expect you back on time. This often turns into a rushed sightseeing trip, leaving little time for true enjoyment.

The influx of tourists seems to have impacted Malaysia’s hospitality. Hotel staff, drivers, and even airport personnel were less friendly, giving off a vibe of “If you’re not here, others will come.” With plenty of visitors and good business, courtesy seems to have taken a backseat. Economic challenges are often the only time people remember politeness. I even pointed this out to our hotel manager during check-out.

For smaller groups, Malaysia’s extensive public transport system is the best way to explore. It saves money, avoids grumpy drivers, and gives you more time at your favorite spots. The country offers numerous transport options like Light Rail Transit (LRT), Mass Rapid Transit (MRT), hop-on-hop-off buses, and monorails. Staying near an LRT station makes travel easier. The hop-on-hop-off open bus service is particularly great for exploring Kuala Lumpur’s tourist spots at your own pace. Various passes, such as 24-hour or 48-hour options, are available. The top deck of the open bus offers a thrilling experience.

The Money Exchange Hassle

This time, I didn’t do much prep for the Malaysia trip. My only real preparation was arranging a prepaid travel card to avoid the hassle of money exchange. No worries about running out of exchanged currency or lugging back unspent coins. If the card runs low, it can be topped up via a bank app. In India, many banks offer forex travel cards, but since NRIs can’t get them there, I used an NBO Bank Badeel card from Oman. I arrived in Malaysia without a single ringgit in cash, wondering if the card might not be accepted everywhere. However, except for the AirAsia flight, the card worked perfectly.

Our journey, which started at noon from home, ended the next morning at 6:30 a.m. at Kuala Lumpur Airport. Understandably, everyone was exhausted. After clearing immigration, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at a Tamil restaurant on the lower floor, freshening up just in time to meet Sulfikar Prakash, who was punctual as ever.

Our first stop was Putrajaya, one of Malaysia’s major tourist attractions. Although Kuala Lumpur remains the official capital, Putrajaya serves as the administrative hub. Over time, key federal government offices have been relocated there.

Despite the hot sun and lingering fatigue from the previous day’s travel, we had only 40 minutes to spend at Putrajaya. That barely left enough time to see the Putrajaya Mosque. Sulfikar Prakash wasn’t willing to allow more time.

The mosque, built in 1997 and named after Malaysia’s first Prime Minister Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra Al-Haj, incorporates traditional Malay architecture with inspiration from Middle Eastern mosques. Known as the Pink Mosque, it’s beautiful but doesn’t quite match the grandeur of mosques in Oman, UAE, or Turkey. During my last visit, the mosque had many flowering plants outside, but this time, they were noticeably absent.

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This Year in Kuala Lumpur

Around this time last year, we visited Istiklal Street, one of Turkey’s busiest and most vibrant streets. A similar experience awaits in Kuala Lumpur at Bukit Bintang. This bustling street is lined with restaurants and street vendors offering a diverse array of culinary delights. The aroma of food calls out from every corner, drawing crowds to dine under the open sky.

You’ll find everything here—from Malaysian durian, often dubbed the “king of fruits,” to a variety of fruits both familiar and exotic. The durian, with its distinctive and stronger aroma compared to jackfruit, dominates the atmosphere. The air in Bukit Bintang is thick with the scent of durian and an array of seafood dishes.

One particular item caught my eye—a skewered delicacy that looked strikingly like neerali (a species of sea snail). A label identified it as squid, but I couldn’t tell if it was truly squid or some other mollusk resembling neerali.

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Devotion with Adventure - Batu Caves

One of Malaysia’s most iconic tourist destinations is Batu Caves, a limestone hill with a temple nestled inside a cave just 13 kilometers from the city. At the base stands an impressive 140-foot-tall concrete statue of Lord Murugan. This site, largely unknown to the world until 1878, was introduced by American explorer William Temple. Thirteen years later, Thambu Swamy, a Tamil devotee, constructed a temple within the caves.

To reach the temple, visitors must climb a steep flight of 272 steps. Despite the physical challenge, Batu Caves welcomes an average of 6,000 visitors daily. The temple is open to people of all castes and religions. Our guide emphasized that Malaysia does not tolerate any form of discrimination based on religion. Everyone has the right to live peacefully and adhere to their beliefs—a principle deeply ingrained in Malaysian society, not just on paper but in real life.

Interestingly, interfaith marriages are common in Malaysia, particularly between Malay Muslims and Hindu immigrants from India or Sri Lanka. Families from both sides often unite harmoniously, creating a shared sense of community. Our guide, Sulfikar Prakash, shared his own family’s story: his mother’s family is Hindu, while his father’s is Muslim, yet they coexist as one family.

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Conquering Heights with the Cable Car

One of Malaysia’s premier tourist destinations is Genting Highlands. As the name suggests, it is a mountain resort located 5,905 feet above sea level. In 1965, a Malaysian businessman visiting for a hydroelectric project recognized the tourism potential of Genting and initiated the project. Work on the road to the mountain began that year, and the first resort was constructed at the summit. Over time, theme parks, restaurants, casinos, and other resorts were developed, transforming it into a popular tourism hub.

 

To reach the peak, there is a cable car service that operates halfway up the mountain. This 13-minute cable car journey is an unforgettable experience. As the cable car ascends, it passes through dense mist. At the summit, the weather is cool and refreshing, with a chilly breeze. Midway up, there is a stop at a traditional Chinese temple, which is truly captivating. The natural beauty surrounding the temple, with lush greenery and misty landscapes, complements the temple’s distinctive Chinese architectural charm.

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Melaka – A City Steeped in History with an Orange

A two-hour journey through heavy traffic from Kuala Lumpur will bring you to Melaka, a historic port city located in western Malaysia. Situated along the narrow Melaka River, the city is charming and filled with history dating back to the 1400s. Melaka's story begins with Parameswara, the ruler of the ancient Singapura (Singapore) empire, who found refuge in the small village of Mukkua, which later became Melaka. With Chinese assistance, he transformed it into a Malay kingdom. Over time, Melaka grew into a bustling port city.

In 1511, the Portuguese took control of Melaka, marking the downfall of the Malay Sultanate. Recognizing its strategic position, the Portuguese made Melaka one of the most important port cities in Southeast Asia. However, by 1824, Melaka, along with nearby Penang and Singapore, came under British control.

Today, the majority of Melaka's residents are of Chinese descent, but the city’s architecture clearly reflects the significant influence of the Portuguese and British, in addition to the Chinese. The most prominent structure in the city is the old church built by the Portuguese, a testament to their lasting presence in Melaka.

The orange-colored buildings are a defining feature of Melaka’s landscape. On the opposite bank of the Melaka River, the buildings showcase a variety of vibrant colors. To fully appreciate the scenic views on both sides of the river, a boat ride along the Melaka River is a must. The ride offers a unique perspective of the city’s historic architecture and picturesque surroundings.

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Agricultural Landscape and Petronas Towers

The journey to Melaka offers a picturesque view of rolling hills covered with oil palms and rubber plantations, which are key sources of Malaysia's income. Rubber, in particular, remains the primary cash crop in Melaka. Additionally, various fruits are cultivated in the region. In 2008, Melaka earned a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list for its rich cultural and historical significance.

The Iconic Petronas Towers: A Record-Breaking Marvel

Petronas, Malaysia's oil and gas giant, constructed the Petronas Twin Towers, a pair of skyscrapers that were the tallest buildings in the world until 2004. Standing at 1,483 feet, the towers were built using reinforced concrete, steel, and glass. The construction, which took place from 1993 to 1996, involved meticulous strength testing. At one point, a failure in the structural testing led to the demolition and reconstruction of a floor, ensuring the towers’ strength.

Though the record was surpassed by the Taipei 101 in 2004, Petronas Twin Towers remains a symbol of Malaysia's architectural prowess. Even today, the 118-story Merdeka Tower in Kuala Lumpur ranks second in height globally, after the Burj Khalifa. The Petronas Towers continues to hold the title for the tallest twin towers in the world.

Whether in daylight or at night, the towers offer distinct experiences. Daytime sees throngs of visitors capturing the perfect photograph, while in the evening, local youth with LED flashlights offer to take stunning shots for a small fee. The KLCC Park, located behind the towers, provides an ideal spot for photos, with the towers as the perfect backdrop for capturing memorable moments.

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KL Tower: A Majestic Landmark of Kuala Lumpur

Alongside the Petronas Towers, another iconic structure of Malaysia is the KL Tower, also known as the Menara KL. Standing at a height of 1,381 feet, KL Tower is primarily a telecommunications tower, ranking seventh in the world in terms of height.

 

The tower became a major tourist attraction after the construction of an observation deck. At 820 feet, this deck offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the city, making KL Tower a must-visit spot for those wishing to experience Kuala Lumpur from above. Whether day or night, the view from the observation deck provides a stunning perspective of the city’s skyline, complementing the iconic presence of the Petronas Towers in the distance.

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Freedom Square and Merdeka Square

On August 31, 1957, Malaysia gained independence from British colonial rule. The country’s first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, lowered the Union Jack and raised the Malaysian flag in front of a sea of onlookers. Today, the place where this historic event took place, known as Merdeka Square or Freedom Square, features one of the tallest flags in the world, towering at 98 meters.

The square is located in front of the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, a stunning architectural landmark, and is a significant symbol of Malaysia's newfound freedom. Not far from the square is the National War Monument, dedicated to the soldiers who sacrificed their lives in the fight against Japanese occupation. The monument, a beautiful bronze sculpture, was the tallest bronze sculpture in the world until 2010.

Both Freedom Square and the War Monument are perfect spots for photography, capturing the essence of Malaysia's history and its path to independence.

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Bird Park and Aquarium

As part of the Kuala Lumpur city tour, two popular tourist destinations are the Bird Park and the Aquarium. The Bird Park allows visitors to observe a wide variety of birds in a natural, open environment. While it may not be as modern as the bird parks in neighboring Singapore, such as the Jurong Bird Park, it remains an enjoyable experience for bird enthusiasts and nature lovers.

 

Similarly, the Aquarium, although not as advanced as Singapore’s Sentosa Island Aquarium, offers a fascinating glimpse into the underwater world. Both attractions are worthwhile visits for those exploring Kuala Lumpur, providing unique experiences with wildlife and marine life.

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National Mosque of Malaysia:

In addition to the Putra Jaya Pink Mosque, we also visited two other remarkable mosques in Malaysia. As part of the city tour, we explored the National Mosque of Malaysia, a grand structure capable of accommodating 15,000 worshippers. Its striking blue dome, intricately designed with unique patterns, grabs the attention of anyone who sees it. Completed in just two years, the mosque was officially opened to the public in 1965. This mosque stands as a testament to Malaysia’s rich cultural and religious heritage, and its architecture is truly captivating.

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Sultan Abdul Samad Mosque

The Sultan Abdul Samad Mosque, built in 1909 by a British architect, is the oldest mosque in Kuala Lumpur. Its distinctive design and striking colors make it immediately noticeable, drawing the attention of anyone nearby. The construction cost of this mosque was shared equally between the Malay Muslims and the British colonial government. Conveniently located just half a kilometer from our hotel, the mosque is a beautiful representation of both history and culture. Adjacent to it are LRT and MRT stations, offering easy access to other parts of the city. After visiting the mosque, we took the LRT to KLCC, where we spent time at the famous Suria KLCC shopping mall before checking out from the hotel.

There is no doubt that the main reason so many Indians, especially Malayalis, travel to Malaysia is due to the very affordable AirAsia tickets. Malaysia Airlines is another major operator in this sector. However, there is a significant price difference. I heard that from July-August 2024, AirAsia will start three direct services per week from Kozhikode to Kuala Lumpur. Although bookings are available on online sites, it is mentioned that they are subject to government approval. I am not sure if the service has actually started. This service will be very convenient for people from North Kerala to visit Malaysia.

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