Istanbul, the city where history rests ( Turkey) Part 1

A Glimpse of History:

If you were to search for the most famous cities in the world, Istanbul would undoubtedly rank among the top 30. It's believed that human settlement in the Istanbul area dates back to around 3000 BC. In the 7th century, Greek Emperor Byzas conquered the region and founded the Byzantine Empire. Later, Roman Emperor Constantine took control, making it the capital under the name Constantinople. In 1453, Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II seized the city and renamed it Istanbul. It became the third and final capital of the Ottoman Empire.

Expenses Might Be High:

Turkey isn't an ideal destination for budget travelers. Following a recent earthquake in the Kurdish regions, Turkey has increased its visa fee from 25 Omani rials to 76. Additionally, food and accommodation are on the expensive side. Given that Istanbul's economy heavily relies on tourism, there's no avoiding the high costs that tourists face.

After a 5-hour flight from Muscat, landing at Sabiha Gökçen Airport felt like stepping into a sea of people. It took over an hour in the immigration queue before we could exit. If you need a trolley for your luggage, you'll need local currency to pay. However, it's unlikely first-time visitors will have Turkish lira on hand. Once outside, things were smoother. The locals were incredibly hospitable and helpful. Contrary to what I’d heard, language wasn’t much of an issue. Even if not everyone speaks English, you’ll always find someone nearby who can offer some assistance.

The journey from Sabiha Gökçen Airport to Istanbul’s city center, aside from the disciplined traffic and quality roads, reminded me of traveling through large towns in Kerala. As we approached Istanbul, traffic became even more congested.

Istanbul’s Sound Beyond the Bosphorus:

The Black Sea’s vast expanse divides Turkey into two—Europe and Asia. As we crossed the 1.5 km-long Bosphorus Hanging Bridge into Istanbul, the first thing that caught my eye was the sea of people, flowing down roads and sidewalks alike. I’ve never been to a busier city. Tram tracks crisscross all the major roads, with trams weaving their way through traffic, blending into the city’s pulse. The tram’s horn sounds just like the bell from a temple, and if you were to ask me what the sound of Istanbul is, I’d say it's the tram's bell. In a crowded city struggling with space like Istanbul, trams play a crucial role in moving tens of thousands of people swiftly and efficiently, avoiding traffic jams. Their biggest advantage is that they don’t require any extra space. Istanbul’s extensive public transport system—comprising trams, buses, metros, boats, and trains—is one of the city's defining features. You can use the same travel card across all public transport, recharging as needed. In Istanbul, public transport is the only thing that’s relatively affordable. From our hotel in the city center, there were two tram stations within walking distance. The famous Orient Express, which departed from Istanbul to Paris and inspired Agatha Christie's "Murder on the Orient Express," had its railway station in this very city center. The hotel where she stayed while writing the novel still stands on Istiklal Street.

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Turkey's Food Diversity

Long Days and Unique Climate in July:

In July, the sun in Istanbul doesn’t set until after 8:30 PM. It’s easy to lose track of time with such long days. The weather is relatively pleasant, though the high humidity can make you feel exhausted quickly while exploring the city. Even though the temperature isn’t too high, walking around the city can be tiring. As for taking a taxi, don’t expect to reach your destination on time if you get stuck in traffic.

Turkey's Culinary Diversity:

Around 70% of the businesses lining Istanbul’s relatively narrow streets are various types of eateries. Most restaurants offer seating on the roadside, where you can enjoy flavorful food accompanied by music and live performances. Exploring Turkish cuisine is one of the main highlights of visiting this city. Menus, often extensive and detailed, are usually displayed outside for passersby to see—something that might make you wonder how they manage to have so many options. But the taste never disappoints. The only downside is that you won’t get a meal for less than 280-300 Turkish lira. As you leave Istanbul and venture into the interior regions of Turkey, prices for food and other essentials tend to drop.

One local specialty we tried near the Ortaköy area was the famous Ortaköy Kumpir. It’s a delightful dish made by baking an unusually large potato and then filling it with an assortment of ingredients like vegetables, sausages, cheese, yogurt, and olives. It was as delicious as it sounds!

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A City of Hidden Wonders - Basilica Cister

Vibrant Nightlife in Istanbul:

Istanbul is a city where nightlife thrives, even beyond midnight. The energy of the city remains palpable, with busy trams and restaurants still bustling with people long after 12 AM. The city feels alive and active, no matter how late it gets.

A City of Hidden Wonders:

Istanbul is full of hidden historical marvels, with some dating as far back as AD 500. One of the most awe-inspiring sights is the Basilica Cistern, an enormous underground reservoir built in 532 by Byzantine Emperor Justinian to store the city's drinking water. It's hard not to be amazed by this vast subterranean structure. Water was channeled from all the surrounding water sources to the cistern through underground pipes. The sheer scale of this engineering feat, accomplished in a time with limited technological advancements, left me in awe, wondering how such a massive construction was possible in that era.

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Ayasofya: The Iconic Symbol of Istanbul

One of the most iconic and globally renowned structures in Istanbul is undoubtedly the Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia). Built between 532 and 537 by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, Ayasofya is a masterpiece that showcases the splendor and architectural brilliance of the Byzantine Empire. Originally constructed as a Christian cathedral, it was later converted into a mosque when the Ottoman Turks captured Constantinople.

 

When Turkey became a republic, Ayasofya was transformed into a museum. However, in recent years, it has been reverted back into a mosque, sparking widespread discussion on social media at the time. Inside, the grandeur of the building is further elevated by the lush green carpets and enormous crystal chandeliers, enhancing the majesty of its stunning architecture. Ayasofya stands as a testament to the rich, layered history of Istanbul and continues to be a significant symbol of the city.

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Sultan Ahmed Mosque

Istanbul's mosques, whether large or small, share a similar architectural style. A central dome flanked by towering minarets and strong pillars on all sides characterizes almost every mosque. Among these, the Blue Mosque, or Sultan Ahmed Mosque, stands out as one of the most magnificent. Built in 1616 during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I, this mosque is famous for its stunning Iznik tiles adorned with blue designs, which give the mosque its name.

 

Inside, the cool blue shade dominates the space, creating a serene atmosphere. The mosque's construction took seven years to complete, and it remains one of Istanbul's most iconic landmarks, drawing visitors from around the world with its impressive design and historic significance.

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Topkapi Palace

From the 1400s to the 1800s, Topkapi Palace served as the administrative heart of the Ottoman Empire. Located in Gulhane, Istanbul, this palace is another marvel that awaits travelers. Constructed during the reign of Sultan Mehmed II, it shares a place with Hagia Sophia on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Today, Topkapi Palace functions as a museum, preserving the relics of the once-mighty Ottoman Empire.

 

Visitors can spend over two hours exploring the many treasures housed within the palace. Nearby, Gulhane Park provides a tranquil escape with its grand oak trees, rare plants, and sprawling lawns, as well as an abundance of birds. Spending time relaxing in this park is a peaceful experience, especially with its giant trees and blooming flowers that are uncommon in other regions. For those visiting in April and May, the park is particularly stunning, as it's adorned with beautiful tulip flowers, a visual treat for anyone lucky enough to visit during this time

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Dolmabahçe Palace

The Dolmabahçe Palace, a symbol of the grandeur and opulence of the Ottoman Empire, was constructed by the 31st Ottoman Sultan, Abdülmecid I, who moved the administrative center from Topkapi Palace to this new masterpiece. Facing the Black Sea, this stunning palace is undoubtedly among the top architectural marvels of the world.

 

Even the fountain at the entrance offers a glimpse of the splendor that awaits inside. The Dolmabahçe Palace’s ceremonial hall (Darbar Hall) is breathtaking, making it impossible not to express awe at its beauty and craftsmanship. The elegance and artistic mastery displayed here are truly remarkable. Unfortunately, photography and video shooting are not allowed inside the palace, which makes it all the more special as an experience preserved in memory alone.

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Grand Bazaar in Istanbul

It's fascinating to imagine a market that welcomes over 400,000 visitors daily, isn't it? This is the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. Spanning 61 streets with around 4,000 shops, the Grand Bazaar is a marvel of Ottoman architecture and commerce. It was constructed in 1455 by Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror (Fatih Sultan Mehmed). Today, it stands as one of the most visited tourist attractions globally.

 

Adjacent to the Grand Bazaar lies the Spice Bazaar, another equally vast, fully covered market. The Spice Bazaar is known for its vibrant colors and aromatic atmosphere, with shops selling an array of spices, sweets, and other delicacies that add a rich flavor to Istanbul's bustling market scene. Both bazaars are not just shopping destinations but cultural experiences that reflect the city’s historical and commercial significance.

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Taksim Square

Taksim Square is often described as the heart of modern Istanbul, a vibrant hub for both locals and visitors. It serves as a central point of connection for various modes of transport, including the Istanbul Metro. The Republic Monument, completed in 1928, stands as a key landmark in the square, symbolizing Turkey's transition to a republic. Nearby, the famous Istiklal Street stretches out, lined with historic buildings and bustling with activity.

 

One of the main attractions here is the red tram, which runs along Istiklal Street. Known as the Nostalgic Tram, it operates on the T2 line and is a popular sight in photos of Istanbul. This tram line, which started running in 1867 and continued until 1966, originally used horses and later switched to electricity. The tram now operates to preserve a sense of nostalgia for the old days, adding a charming and historic touch to the modern city. The sight of the red tram winding its way through the crowds on Istiklal Street is a quintessential image of Istanbul.

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Galata Tower

The Galata Tower, built in 1348, was the tallest structure in Istanbul for centuries. Standing at 205 feet, it served multiple purposes during the Ottoman era, including as a watchtower and a prison. In the 1960s, it was converted into a museum and opened to the public.

 

The tower has 9 floors, and while there is a lift to reach the top, visitors must take the stairs to descend. Given the steepness and the effort required, many opt to skip the climb back down, especially if they're tired from the journey. Despite this, the view from the top of the tower is magnificent and offers a stunning panoramic view of the city.

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Balat - Colorful houses and Vibrant streets

Balat, located in Istanbul, is known for its colorful houses and vibrant streets, making it one of the city's most distinctive neighborhoods. The area is rich in history, with many old wooden houses painted in various shades, creating a charming and picturesque atmosphere. Balat is popular among tourists for its quaint, traditional feel, attracting visitors with its narrow alleys and historical buildings.

 

There are other similar villages and districts around Istanbul that share the same vibrant charm, where the traditional architecture and vibrant colors tell stories of the city's past. Balat, in particular, has become a favorite for those looking to explore Istanbul's more authentic and lesser-known sides.

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Bosphorus Strait

Bosphorus Strait, despite its relatively short 30 km length, has played a crucial role in shaping the history of Istanbul. This narrow waterway that separates the European and Asian continents has had a significant impact on the region's fate. Throughout history, it was a key passage for trade between Asia, Europe, and Africa, making it a strategic point of control.

In the past, to attack Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) via the sea, controlling the Bosphorus Strait was essential. Its narrowness made it a natural barrier for naval defenses, and Constantinople had robust defenses in place along this stretch of water. The Ottoman Turks’ early attempts to conquer Constantinople were unsuccessful due to the fierce naval resistance at the Bosphorus.

However, the Ottomans eventually secured control by building two forts on either side of the Bosphorus, at its narrowest point (750 meters), laying the foundation for their dominance in the region. They also constructed secret land routes, using both human labor and camels to transport materials, while building warships and other military structures to break the Byzantine naval defense.

Today, the Bosphorus Strait is a popular destination for tourists, with hundreds of boats carrying visitors to explore its scenic beauty. Along the way, travelers can see historic Ottoman palaces, mosques, and mansions that reflect the grandeur of the era. The Bosphorus Cruise is one of the most cherished experiences for visitors to Istanbul, offering a view of both the European and Asian shores, with landmarks that tell stories of a bygone empire.

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Ortaköy Mosque

Ortaköy Mosque, located along the Bosphorus Strait, is one of the most iconic landmarks in Istanbul. Though relatively small in size, its architectural beauty and the surrounding scenery make it a significant attraction for visitors. The mosque’s location by the water, with the magnificent Bosphorus Bridge in the background, adds to its charm.

The mosque, also known as the Grand Ortaköy Mosque, was built in the 18th century during the Ottoman Empire and is known for its Baroque-style design, which is quite unique compared to other mosques in Istanbul. The exterior of the mosque features intricate details, while the interior is equally stunning, with ornate decorations, chandeliers, and high ceilings that create a sense of grandeur despite its compact size.

Visitors are often captivated by its peaceful atmosphere and picturesque setting, with views of the Bosphorus and the modern city skyline in the distance. Whether from the outside or the inside, Ortaköy Mosque offers a beautiful blend of history, architecture, and nature, making it a must-visit spot for tourists exploring Istanbul.

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The sights never end

The sights never end

There are still many sights in Istanbul. Even if you have a taxi or private vehicle, it is difficult to park everywhere, so a lot of walking will be required. Using public transport allows you to travel at a lower cost, saving both money and time. Since we were traveling with children aged 4 and 5, we only spent 3 days in Istanbul. Those with favorable circumstances could spend more days in Istanbul. Our journey was part of a tourist package. In my personal opinion, when traveling with young children, it is better to opt for a package to ensure the safest and most convenient travel without taking any risks. Road Tales Tours played a significant role in making our 9-day journey, which included both Istanbul and Trabzon, a joyful and hassle-free experience.

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Trabzon: From Europe to Asia ( Part 2)

After a four-day exploration, as we crossed the Bosphorus Bridge bidding farewell to Istanbul, the sign "Welcome to Asia" greeted us. Yes, we were transitioning once again from Europe to Asia. Initially, we had planned to cover the 1100 km distance from Istanbul to Trabzon by flight. However, Aseer, the owner of the Road Tales group, knowing our love for long road trips, suggested a road journey instead.

He proposed a plan to break the trip into two days, enjoying stops at various spots and staying overnight en route. It sounded perfect. Our ride for this adventure was a Volkswagen Tiguan, a rental vehicle so well-maintained that it felt like a brand-new car. In Turkey, cars from reputed rental companies are of exceptional quality, and this one was no exception.

Initially, we were slightly apprehensive about losing an extra day for this road trip in Turkey. However, those concerns quickly vanished as we left Istanbul's city limits and joined the express highway to Trabzon. The scenic beauty along the route instantly captivated us. The weather and the landscape changed dramatically as we progressed. Istanbul’s comparatively warm climate gave way to cooler weather, accompanied by rain and mist. At times, heavy rain and thick fog enveloped us, making the journey through the mountains, valleys, and tunnels an unforgettable experience.

Bright sunflower fields lined parts of the route, and we took some time to soak in the beauty of one such field. The journey was leisurely, with frequent stops for meals and breaks. The petrol stations along the expressway were massive, equipped with large shops and eateries, all impeccably clean. However, most restrooms reflected European standards—water and pipes were not always available, which might pose a slight inconvenience for us.

Darkness set in by 8:30 PM, and we decided to halt at the first city we encountered. The hotel we found was even better than the one we stayed at in Istanbul, offering a comfortable rest for the night.

The next morning, we resumed our journey. Along the way, we saw numerous farms growing a variety of fruits, many with attached houses and small restaurants. We stopped at one such farm for lunch. The food was not only delicious but also much cheaper than in Istanbul. By evening, we reached the Black Sea coast, driving along its picturesque shores dotted with countless restaurants. Under the overcast sky, we sipped Turkish coffee while watching the waves crash against the shore.

By 9 PM, we finally arrived in Trabzon, having passed through over ten provinces in Turkey. The journey was as enriching as the destination itself, a perfect blend of nature, culture, and Turkish hospitality.

 

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Trabzon: Then and Now

Once a Roman military outpost, Trabzon has a history of shifting control, including a period under Georgian rule. It was Sultan Mehmed who eventually captured Trabzon, integrating it into Turkey. Historically, Trabzon was a major hub of trade along the ancient Silk Road.

Known for its cool climate, Trabzon records the lowest temperatures in Turkey during summer, especially in July, making it the peak season for tourists. With lush green mountains, misty valleys, and cascading waterfalls, Trabzon is a paradise for travelers, particularly from GCC countries. Many locals working in shops and hotels here are fluent in Arabic, catering to the influx of visitors from the Gulf.

 

 

Trabzon is also a conservative region, reflecting the traditional values deeply rooted in Turkish culture. Its natural beauty and historical significance make it a must-visit destination for those seeking tranquility and cultural richness.

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Don't Miss Pokut

Pokut, situated at an altitude of 7,120 feet above sea level, is one of the most renowned tourist destinations in Trabzon. Located near Rize, the birthplace of President Erdogan, this region is known as his stronghold. Even after the recent elections, Erdogan's banners and slogans are still visible along the roads.

The journey to Pokut takes you close to the Georgian border, about 90 km away from Batumi, Georgia. The highway also features signs for Batum, referring to this Georgian city. Large trucks transporting goods to countries like Georgia and Azerbaijan are a common sight along the route.

 

The path to Pokut follows the banks of the Firtina River, offering a scenic drive reminiscent of the journey along the Teesta River in West Bengal en route to Gangtok, Sikkim. Adventure seekers can enjoy rafting on the Firtina River, and zip lines are installed across the water at various points. The picturesque arch bridges over the river add to the charm, attracting visitors who often stop to capture photos from these spots.

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Off-Road Journey to Pokut

Our journey gradually transitioned from a tar road to a relatively challenging off-road path. Pokut is a destination that requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Even though group tour visitors travel in Ford and Benz vans, these vehicles cannot go all the way to the peak of Pokut. They will stop at a point before the peak. To reach the top, private vehicles are needed. Our vehicle, a Volkswagen Tiguan, was not a four-wheel-drive, so we faced some difficulty navigating the hairpin bends with reduced grip. However, with the determination of our guide and driver, Aseer, no obstacle stood in our way, and we successfully completed the journey.

Pokut's Enchanting Atmosphere

The temperature at Pokut when we arrived was just 9 degrees. There were only a few houses and a couple of small restaurants catering to tourists. The landscape was charming with small wildflowers covering the hillsides, the forest trees growing upward, and heavy mist slowly covering and retreating from the mountain peaks, creating an incredibly picturesque atmosphere. To reach the restaurant at the top of the hill, we had to walk through some difficulty, but it was worth every step for the breathtaking experience.

 

A Delightful Meal at a Fish Farm

After spending two hours at the top, we headed back and stopped for lunch at a fish farm we came across on the way. The river water was diverted into small pools where fish were being farmed. Inside the farm, there was a small restaurant, and we had the option to enjoy the nature's beauty while eating outdoors. The fish was softly cooked with minimal spices and salt, making it delicious and flavorful.

 

Ending the Trip at Fertina River

Before it got dark, we stopped at a shallower part of the Fertina River, where the flow and depth were lower. We allowed the children to play in the water for a while before wrapping up the trip for the day.

 

 

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Sumela Monastery: A Journey of Discovery

One of our main goals in Trabzon was the Sumela Monastery. Founded by two monks from Athens in the period AD 375-95, it was built with two rooms on the steep mountain of Melas, named after the Virgin Mary. Later, in the sixth century, the Byzantine Emperor Justinian expanded it. The monastery was rebuilt in its current form during the 13th century. Even when the Ottoman Turks took control, they allowed Sumela’s rights and powers to continue, offering special considerations as well, as history tells us.

While it's possible to drive up to the base of Sumela, only experienced drivers in Ford vans are allowed to ascend the narrow pass further. Once at the top, you must walk a bit to reach the monastery. As you climb the steep slope, you can see mountain water flowing down the sides like a waterfall. If you're in your own vehicle, you might be tempted to stop and take in the views.

I had expected Sumela to be a magnificent monastery, similar to the vibrant, grand ones I had seen in Sikkim and Hong Kong. The Google images of the monastery outside further heightened my expectations. However, when we arrived, our hopes were dashed due to heavy snowfall. We couldn't even get a clear view of the monastery. Despite hoping for many good photos, I never even took my camera out of the bag. The monastery, built in the 13th century, has not been modified much since then. It consists of a few narrow rooms, corridors, and some open spaces built along the mountain's side. If there were no visitors, it would be a perfect place for solitude and meditation.

If you don't judge the journey solely by its final destination, the trip to Sumela itself is a heartwarming experience.

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Sigana Pass and Tunnel

Our next destination was the Sigana Pass, situated 6,700 feet above sea level, along with a small village. As we ascended the pass, we witnessed the snowfall intensifying, which led us to decide to turn back. We stopped at spots with less snow to enjoy the scenery. We spent some time in Sigana Village, which has only a few houses. The village was peaceful, with children playing in the hillside and some cows roaming around. The sight of snow and sunshine changing alternately on the distant mountain was a fascinating one. After capturing some time-lapse videos and photos, we continued our journey towards a lake and national park located 10 km from the village.

The Trabzon region is home to numerous tunnels built through the mountains, designed for roadways. The largest of these in Turkey, and the second largest in the world, is the tunnel leading to Sigana Pass. Stretching 14.47 km, it consists of two tunnels for each side of the road. Started in 2019, it was completed in 2023—a feat that would surely amaze us Keralites. It's not just any tunnel; it's designed with modern facilities and thoughtful planning. There are special parking areas along the route where vehicles can stop if necessary. The tunnel is monitored 24/7. When we attempted to take a photo while parked at a designated stop, we heard a voice in Turkish from above. Our guide later explained that stopping there was unsafe and advised us to leave the area swiftly. Whether the guide was trying to lighten the mood or genuinely protecting us, we're not sure! ??

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Uzungöl: The Heart of Trabzon for Tourists

Uzungöl, a serene lake nestled between distant mountains, is arguably the most visited tourist spot in Trabzon. For many Omanis, when they think of Trabzon, it's Uzungöl that comes to mind. It's no surprise that the lush greenery and flowing rivers of Trabzon captivate those from GCC countries who are used to dry landscapes. There are direct flight services from many GCC countries to Trabzon, making it a popular destination.

 

I first heard of Trabzon through a Facebook ad by Salam Air. One of the most prominent photos that appears when searching for Trabzon online is of Uzungöl Lake, surrounded by mountains, with a small mosque by its side. This image marked the way I envisioned Trabzon in my mind. Standing in front of that little mosque by the lake, which I had seen countless times on Google and Facebook, brought me a sense of unique joy—perhaps the happiest moment of my trip to Turkey.

 

Uzungöl Lake: A Peaceful Retreat

Uzungöl Lake is truly a breathtaking sight, well-maintained and preserved in its pristine beauty. The absence of boat rides on the lake ensures that its natural charm remains undisturbed, adding to its tranquility. A large park has been developed right next to the lake, providing a perfect space to relax and appreciate the surroundings.

For a panoramic view of the lake, a narrow path behind the mosque leads to higher ground. From there, one can capture the iconic views of Uzungöl Lake that often appear in Google images. The area around the lake also features several hotels, where visitors can enjoy not only the stunning scenery but also delicious meals. It’s the perfect place to unwind, savoring good food while soaking in the peaceful atmosphere.

 

The Final Moments of a Memorable Trip

Our Turkey trip ended with the breathtaking view of Uzungöl Lake. After spending some time resting at the hotel, we prepared for our flight back to Muscat, scheduled for 1:30 AM. The airport was just a 10-minute drive from the hotel, and with multiple flights departing to Kuwait, Jordan, and other countries around the same time, the airport was quite busy. Despite the small size of the airport, the number of passengers seemed overwhelming.

The flight counters and immigration were limited, and there was a large crowd in the main hall. It was hard to even spot the queue for the counters. While it felt like the flight might be delayed due to the rush, everything proceeded on schedule, and we took off on time. Our Turkey trip came to a close, leaving us with countless cherished memories, marking the end of an unforgettable journey.

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